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Reviewed in the United States on March 6, 2025
As you probably already know, this is the best capacitor made. If you have a 2-wire Hard Start kit (e.g., Kickstart), this capacitor has a special terminal called CPT where one lead connects (wiring diagram on cap). This will cause the lock-out of the hard start kit if the primary cap blows. This will prevent the AC from starting and running just on the Hard Start cap which will destroy your compressor.
TLS
Reviewed in the United States on February 1, 2025
My original went out on a very hot day. My much trusted HVAC professional gave me a loaner and requested I buy this specific one. It was easy to replace and is a great value for the money.
scottie
Reviewed in the United States on August 9, 2024
I like that the capacitor was made in the USA.I used it on my Goodman a/c condenser.
Robert
Reviewed in the United States on July 10, 2024
My daughter's AC stopped working so I tested her old capacitor. It wasn't dead, but the capacitance readings were low out of spec. Ordered this one (and a spare) and checked it with a meter. The readings were within specs and I installed this capacitor. Unfortunately for her, there was another issue that required an AC tech to come and spend some time and money to repair. He did say that the old capacitor died because of the freon leak in the unit. Capacitors are a common failure point in home AC units, so its wise to have one on hand, especially when you pay for a service charge to have it checked by a tech.
Babi
Reviewed in the United States on June 26, 2024
I live in South Texas and our AC capacitor used to fail every single year. The HVAC contractor charged us $400 each year and just for the replacement! The part (Chinese JARD capacitor - $8) was still under warranty. This year the capacitor started to leak again and before it completely fails, I bought this AmRad with 5 years of warranty and replaced it myself. The first thing we noticed is the AC unit is working smoothly and we don't realize when it stops or starts! I did not expect any difference in how the unit works. So happy with my purchase.
Phil Burke
Reviewed in the United States on June 18, 2024
HVAC guy recommended, old one only lasted a few years, he said these are much higher quality
Randy62b
Reviewed in the United States on November 16, 2024
Arrived in good condition. Love the CPT compressor protection terminal designed to protect compressor from running on hard start unit when capacitor fails. They test the capacitor in factory and put a sticker on it with actual MFD readings.
Joe Lam
Reviewed in Canada on October 10, 2023
great
Ol' Hesty
Reviewed in the United States on September 29, 2016
Bought this to replace a working AmRad cap (capacitor) of same species. Using the old one (pretty crusty) as a backup. Here is why.. I pretty much had one of my other A/C's cap conk out on me, the outside fan wouldn't spin, and the air coming from the inside registers was just room temp. Have a home warranty that came with the purchase of the house. A/C service tech came out 4 days later after the initial call and noted the dead run capacitor on my affected A/C unit. He went to his truck, came back with a new one, and had it replaced in less than 7 minutes. I asked if I could keep the old one. He gave the busted one to me (bowed top - indication of expired capacitor), but put it in the box of the replacement capacitor. System started right up. I asked him if in the future if this kind of repair is something a home owner could do. He stated, that I would have to have special training and know how to read schematics and electric diagrams in order to perform this job. When I asked him how much these capacitors (caps) cost, he stated about $55-65 He was paid $60 for home warranty service call, and went on his way. At first I took his word for it that you had to have special training. Later on that night, I was examining the box that the new cap came in, and read the label on the old crusty cap, and noted that the compressor MFD or uf did not match (the newer one was a smaller number). This was a concern, so I started reading about run caps and watching the YouTube Vids on them. I realized that for longevity, you need to replace a run cap tit for tat on the MFD or uf, and in addition, you need a quality cap if you would like it to run a long time without problems. Also, because these things are relatively cheap, it was advised to keep one as a back up or spare. What I learned is this: the top two brands of run caps is AmRad and Genteq (formerly GE). Both excellent products, however, the AmRad is made in the USA and Genteq is manufactured in North America (Mexico) no disrespect, but I would prefer one made in the USA (and yea, you pay twice as much, but can you really put a price on peace of mind?) I additionally learned that the repairman was not telling a truth when he said you need to have some special knowledge of electric schematics or whatever. You just need read a little bit online, and watch several YouTube vids (especially the ones that point out safety), and I think I might be able to teach a monkey how to replace these things. Baaahhhhhh, special training my arse. What a joke! I am an RN, and I replaced my caps on both of my A/C units in less than 20 minutes (and I was taking my time too cleaning out the cob webs and dust in the run cap compartment. Glad this situation happened. I shall never have to pay some outrageous bill to have some guy come out to replace a run cap again. The bigger benefit, is that I will have to wait about 10 minutes as opposed to 4 days to get my unit back up and running again (should the problem be the run cap).Oh yea, something that wiill come in handy for the novice or expert. What I noticed is that pretty much all run caps have and etched in identifiers for what each terminal is for C= common, F= fan, HERM = Hermetically sealed compressor. Well this is all fine and dandy with new cap, but have that sucker sit out in the weather, year after year with a tin housing, and you can hardly ID the etched in identifiers. So here is what I did to circumvent any future problems with what goes where. Get you a permanent marker, and on the side of the cap adjacent to the terminals, mark F, C, & HERM respective to the correct terminal. Then you will never have to try to figure out if your plugging it up right. I would even advocate to go out and do it to your caps now (if you can still read the stamped or etched in terminal identifiers)
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