Detroit Axle - Steering Rack & Pinion Kit for 2003-2006 Ford Expedition 2004 2005, Complete Power Steering Rack & Pinion Assembly, 2 Outer Tie Rod Ends Replacement

The steering rack fit in perfectly works perfect no problems very happy with product would buy again if needed thank you.

I was sent two left tie rod ends so that means you have to undo the right one to grease it

The rack & peanut assembly seems to be OK, no complaints so far. But the tie rod ends that are supposed to be included were not.

Product is ok, seems to work, but they offer a lifetime warrantee for sending the core back bit after 10 emails over many weeks I can not get my label to return the core.

I purchased this to install in my 2003 Ford Expedition 4x4 5.4L Eddie Bauer Edition. First and foremost, this is a huge pain in the a$$ project. The metal lines on my old steering rack (aka steering gear) corroded and failed which caused my issues. When one line goes, the rest on the vehicle lines (including brake and transmission lines) are not going to be far behind.You are going to need a lot of tools to do this job.Get yourself a ford fan clutch removal tool. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KO3AQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1a set of deep well impact sockets. I think I needed an 18 and 21 mm.a 1/2" breaker bar, or 1/2" ratchet with a cheater pipe, or a good 1/2" Impact gunvarious pry barsa set of open end/box wrenches2 lb hammer (to knock out tie rod ends)not essential, but a set of ratcheting type box wrenches helps.a set of various ratcheting hose clamp pliers will save you a lot of struggling (like these): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z9RSU9W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_detailsa 1/2" torque wrench capable of 150 ft/lbs (111 ft/lbs for the tie rod ends and 150 ft/lbs for lug nuts).A grease gunA new air filter (why not)Two quarts power steering fluid.3 gallons antifreeze (not diluted or 6 gallons 50/50)(if you do the transmission lines) 12 quarts Mercon V (not LV) and a new transmission filterNew radiator hoses including the one that goes to the overflow bottle too. Might as well replace them while you're there. The cooling system hoses are extremely hard to do with the rack in place, not something you'll be able to do on the side of the road. Get you a new oil filter, 6 quarts of oil, an assortment of new hose clamps, all new power steering lines, and prepare to get your a$$ kicked... (Being conservative) I replaced the power steering pump too, and ended up replacing all the pulleys, serpentine belt, transmission oil cooler lines, transmission fittings, and radiator fittings. I didn't plan on replacing the transmission oil cooler lines but one started leaking just after I got everything put back together. The transmission lines are much easier to access with the rack out of the vehicle. Two of the three transmission oil cooler lines and the fittings you can only get from a Ford dealer and they are super expensive. If you do the transmission lines, don't even bother buying the special tool and trying to remove the old lines from the radiator.. just cut em', screw the old fittings out, and install the new fittings. It's expensive but you'll save yourself a lot of aggravation and possibly being stranded on the highway.Before you jack it up, start draining the radiator (5 gallon bucket needed), remove the two plastic covers (one over the radiator and the one over the intake), remove the air duct intake hose clamp on top the engine, remove the air filter housing clamp and remove the air filter. Take out the air box being careful to disconnect the MAF sensor. The rest of it you just pull up and yank it out of the fender. Remove the upper radiator hose(s) , fan shroud, and take the fan off using the fan clutch removal wrench. All that just to remove the 10 mm bolt from the steering linkage. All this helps when putting the steering lines back in and reconnecting the steering link too. If you don't do all this first, you'll be on a ladder doing it (like I did). Now jack up the truck and remove the wheels. Be extremely careful and make sure the truck is adequately supported. Asphault gets soft when it's warm, so if that's the surface you are planning to work on, you should put 1/2" plywood under your jack stands.Once it's jacked up finish draining the radiator and the block plugs (for a good flush while you're at it..) Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator end and bend it out of the way. Remove the plastic drip shield under the oil filter and throw it away.. useless. Drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Removing the radiator hose, the oil drip shield, and the oil filter will provide some much needed working room.Disconnect the large bolts lower are 18 mm you need to hold one side and unscrew the other. The upper are 21 mm and there is a retainer on the back side. If you take it easy and let gravity help you the screww right downs without holding the back side. Once the bolts are out, knock out the brackets (note: those brackets are not symmetrical. The bolt holes are offset so there is a right and a left.) Push/pull the rack down off the steering linkage/knuckle and remove the 10 mm power steering hose retaining bolt. (FYI. I had to cut the old power steering lines with a sawzall because I couldn't pry them out of the old rack..). Disconnect the tie rod ends and then fish the rack out through the passenger side wheel well.Once you get the old rack out..(if applicable, install the new power steering pump (3 bolts, two from the top, one from the bottom). You'll want to install the new high pressure line on the power steering pump before you slide the new rack in. I ended up cutting a 3/4" box wrench in half with a 4" cutting wheel (to shorten it) so I could tighten the nut on the power steering pump. A crow's foot could be used but it's a pain either way. You'll then put in the block end of the new radiator hoses (while you can still get the clamps on them..)Something to check before you fish the new rack in, the power steering line retainer bolt that came out of my old rack was longer then the depth of the threaded hole on the re-manufactured rack. The bolt bottomed out before it went all the way down. I ended up cutting the bolt and make it shorter.Just before or immediately after you slide the new rack in, don't forget to remove the stupid little red plastic caps in the new steering rack before you stab the new power steering lines into it.. If you take the caps off before you slide it in the vehicle, drain the oil out of it first or oil is going to run out all over the place while you are trying to fish it in position. If you leave those stupid caps in and forget to take them out (like I did), the power steering lines will go into the holes but then you'll have problems getting them tightened down and be wondering what the heck is wrong.. I ruined one of the O rings in the process and ended up taking the rack all the way back out to dig those darn caps with a deck screw. I then had to get new o rings.Install the lines into the rack before you bolt it into position. There's just no room to work on the hoses or tighten the hose retainer bolt once it's bolted in.. this might be a silly way to go about it, but you could loosely bolt it up in the vehicle and install the tie rod ends, then remove the mounting bolts again and push the rack down to get to the hoses. This way, the tie rod ends hold up the rack up while you are working on the power steering lines. (Not exactly what I did but it's a thought of how I could have done it more easily).I had problems with one of the new power steering cooler lines being to small to fit onto the OEM cooler too. I had to file down the bump (I think it's called a barb) on the cooler to get it to slide on. Good luck with that..Detroit Axle doesn't provide new stop nuts for the new tie rod ends, so you'll have to take the old ones off the old rack or go buy new ones else where.For me, one of the tie rod ends provided had something wrong with it.. I could not get grease to inject into it. I tried swapping it with a zerk fitting that I knew worked and I tried a new zerk fitting. I even spent $80 on a new grease gun. No luck. I had to buy different tie rod ends. Another thing, the ends of the boots are fixed with a zip tie that'll have to be cut in order to do an alignment. Removable clamps for this is something else that should probably be provided by Detroit Axle but they don't.Best of luck to you..

It's a rebuild, not necessarily a bad thing. However it does not come with the nuts that lock the outer tie rod. You'll have to either take old ones all the way off to put on new or get new ones to try to get the aliment some what close to original by setting up side by side.

Missing pieces