Dorman 523-305 Rear Subframe Bushing Kit Compatible with Select Nissan Models (OE FIX)

Replaced original rear subframe bushings out for these on 2013 rogue. Fitment was good and has been on car for couple of months now. Seems to be working good.

Excelente calidad buen precio

These bushings were installed on a 2008 Nissan Rogue that was about as noisy as any car I have ever driven. The bushings in the front of the front subframe are different than the bushings on the back of the front subframe. The description for 523-305 says rear subframe, but is better described as front subframe, rear position. Part number 523-306 is toward the front of the car, part number 523-305 is on the back position of the front subframe. Each part number ordered came with two bushings.For someone that has worked on cars a fair amount, removing the front subframe is not very difficult or time consuming; it can be removed in an hour or so. There are several videos and people have their methods, but here's how I did it. Please note the picture shows the control arms removed, but you don't need to remove them for this job.Jack up the car pretty high - you are removing the subframe!Place jack stands on the frame rails behind the subframe. Obvious point, but you can't place the jack stands on the subframe where you normally might, since you are removing the subframe!Remove the wheelsRemove the plastic cover from the bottom of the carRemove the lower ball joint nut and bolt - the ball joint is not a taper fit, so pressing down on the control arm with a large pry bar will allow the ball joint to slip out of the spindleI saw a video where someone left the steering rack attached to the subframe, but I would rather remove the bolts holding the rack instead of dealing with the steering column linkage.You can decide: keep the rack attached to the subframe and disconnect the steering column linkage, sway bar end links, and tie rod ends - don't unbolt sway bar from subframe or remove the steering rack from the subframe and also unbolt the sway bar from the subframe - don't touch steering column linkage or sway bar end linksRemove the four bolts behind the subframe which hold a bracket across the width of the subframeRemove the two bolts connecting the subframe to the transmissionRemove the two small nuts on the exhaust bracket and clear the bracket from the studsRemove the four subframe bolts, one at each corner - be careful! Now it can fall on you!You can now remove the subframe.I unbolted the steering rack from the subframe and left it with the car. This should have allowed me to leave the tie rod ends in place, but I wasn't thinking and removed them from the spindles. Even though I probably could have left them on, it was very helpful to be able to move the spindles freely when I was attaching the control arms after replacing those bushings at the same tie as the ones on the subframe.To remove the tie rod ends from the spindle, I loosened the nut with an impact wrench, but did not remove it. I then tapped the nut with a hammer to free the tapered tie rod end from the spindle (protecting the threads this way). I then loosened the nut with a wrench while holding the tie rod end with a torx bit.I prefer to press instead of hammer, but it is difficult to position the frame under a press, and there are no flat supports to press against. With much effort to put the subframe in a stable position at the right level under the press, I was able to press off one front corner, but the other front corner is shaped differently and has less of an area to hold it stable under the press. I made a couple of attempts, but couldn't keep it stable and it only lifted in the air as I pumped the press. I resorted to hammering, which was much easier. Overall, hammering would have probably been faster, but I don't like pounding on things I find valuable, like car parts and tools. For the one corner I hammered, a block of wood underneath was all I needed, as opposed to the various blocks of wood and round adapters (sockets, tubes, whatever I could find) when using the press. With just a few hits, the bushing came out. I didn't use heat for pressing or hammering.Whether press or hammer, before starting this job I suggest finding the right size sockets or adapters for removing the bushings. If they are too big, they won't fit, and if they are too small they will slip past the very narrow edge of the bushing you need to push against. The front bushing is about 1.89" or 47.9 mm in diameter. The 32 mm socket I used is 1.78" or 45.2 mm, and it pressed into the bushing instead of pressing against it. The bushing came out, but with much effort and a gunshot loud BANG! To prevent pressing my socket into the next bushing, I ground down an old bearing race, which I keep on hand for making tools like this. It took about an hour, but at 1.84" or 46.6 mm, it was a closer fit on the bushing, but still small enough to slide past rust and other imperfections. The bearing race had a smaller inside diameter than the bushing, so the 32 mm socket pushed against it instead of pressing into it. I already had the OTC ball joint adapters mentioned below on hand. Hopefully you have something that works without having to buy anything. If you decide to buy the OTC adapters, you can look around and decide if it is better to buy them individually or as part of a kit. Any given adapter may be in several different kits, so pick the one that works best for you, either cheapest or will fit the most cars you are working on. Take note that even sockets of the same hex size can be of very different diameters, whether impact or not, or different brands, etc. There are typically two sizes for a classic Chrysler ball joint socket, large and small. The socket mentioned below is for the large style Chrysler ball joints.I pressed out the rear bushings (1.68" or 42.4 mm) with a 1 1/8" socket that was 1.56" or 39.8 mm in diameter. Even though the difference between the bushing and the socket size was similar to the front, the rear bushings came out without the socket getting wedged in the bushing, which may have just been luck.To press in the front subframe bushing, I used OTC ball joint adapter 39976 (2.51" or 63.6 mm) or a large Chrysler ball joint socket. I had both on hand, and both were large enough to not cut the rubber at the edge, but being this large the outer edge of the bushing could bend before the bushing was pressed in. OTC adapter 554413 is a smaller diameter (2.17" or 55 mm) and a better fit for pressing closer to the center, but may cut the rubber at the edge. Decide what is best for you, or hopefully you have something better than me.IMPORTANT: If pressing in the bushing, the support under the subframe corner tube must be open in the center. The bushing is long, and as it is pressed into the frame, will extend below the circular tube it is being pressed into. It's easy to miss this detail since when placing the bushing in the hole, before it is pressed in, it does not extend past the bottom. So, I thought it would be easy to just place an iron block under the subframe tube to support it. What I didn't see is that once the bushing started to be pressed in, the center hit the iron block, and as I continued to press, the top portion of the bushing ripped away from the center portion. I just ruined my brand new bushings! Because of the misleading description about front and rear subframe, I ordered two sets of front bushings, so I was able to use the second set to replace the new ones I just destroyed. For set number two, instead of a solid block under the subframe bushing hole, I placed a sturdy tube. As the bushing pressed into place, it was free to extend past the bottom. With this correct method of support, there was no problem using OTC 39976 or the large Chrysler ball joint socket, which pressed the bushing without bending it.I pressed in the rear bushings with OTC 38354 or 554413 (2.17" or 55 mm). One side went in fine, the other side didn't go in as easily and the edge started to bend. OTC 313969 is a smaller diameter (2" or 50.8 mm) and pressed the bushing, and did not cause any damage to the rubber.With the bushings replaced all the clunking went away and the car sounds and drives much better.

Installed on Nissan rogue.

Installed these on my 2011 Nissan Rogue with worn out bushings at a mechanic shop and noise is gone now. Liking it

Labeled incorrectly on Amazon as being for the front end - this part number is actually for the rear.

These bushings fit my Rogue nicely. Good option, considering that Nissan does not sell bushings .

Worked like a champ bought both front and rear sets. Removed front subframe. Air hammered old bushings out and used a press to install new ones.

Just what I needed