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Your cart is empty.This engine camshaft synchronizer is designed to match the fit and function of the original synchronizer on specified applications, and is engineered for reliable performance and durability. This part is compatible with the following vehicles. Before purchasing, enter your vehicle trim in the garage tool to confirm fitment. [Ford Ranger: 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007] - [Ford Taurus: 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007] - [Ford Windstar: 1998, 1999] - [Mazda B3000: 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007] - [Mercury Sable: 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005]
William cox
Reviewed in the United States on February 1, 2025
Still working like a champ
David Mahala
Reviewed in the United States on October 19, 2024
I bought this part to replace the OEM factory one on my wife's 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0L as it was starting to squeak. My mechanic said the part worked perfectly. The price was great and included a warranty. If you have an older Ford that has a squeak that keep time with the rotation of the engine, this is part you need to replace. I initially thought it was the idler pulley and the tension pulley and changed them first. But this was the part I needed all along.
780
Reviewed in Canada on August 5, 2022
Would buy again
Wayne H.
Reviewed in Canada on September 30, 2021
Excellent value at this price. Includes a new camshaft position sensor (not included with other brands) and an alignment tool (which wasn't available elsewhere). The 3.0L V6 in my 2006 Ford Ranger XL 2WD had developed a squealing noise that sounded like belt/pulley noise. Intermittent at first, then steady. Finally isolated the noise to this unit, at the back of the engine, with an automotive stethoscope. I found the timing marks on the crank pulley (took a LOT of cleaning and a magnifier to see them) and set the engine to TDC at cylinder 1 (front left cylinder when facing the firewall) on the compression cycle. Must be on the compression cycle. Take photos and mark position of the synchronizer "pointer" before removing the 10 mm bolt and extracting the synchronizer from the engine. When re-installing (for the Ranger), the pointer in the synchronizer should be at 38 degrees CCW from center when looking from the front of the engine bay toward the firewall. Coat O rings and the gear at the bottom of the new part with engine oil before installing, to avoid damage. My truck is running smooth and quiet with this new part installed. So far, so good!
Glen MacKinnon
Reviewed in Canada on October 18, 2020
HAVE NOT INSTALLED YET - LOOKS TO BE CORRECT PART AS DISCRIBED. MAKES ME HAPPY! Good Del. Time as always. Thanks Glen M.
William Lillie
Reviewed in Canada on June 22, 2017
Worked well. No more squeak. Easy to install.
Curtis
Reviewed in Canada on March 25, 2016
Shipped fast - good packagingDirect fit in 2008 Ford Ranger 3.0 l (why did Ford stop making these?)20 min - old out, new in ...... back on the road.
NZ
Reviewed in the United States on March 11, 2016
My 2005 Ford Taurus started this chirping noise recently, and I bought this product after doing some research online. Originally I was a bit worried because I saw some comments online saying that this product has wrong dimensions, but it turned out to be a good fit for my car.The package contains 3 items: a cam synchronizer, a cam position sensor, and an alignment tool. According to my experience the alignment tool is very helpful, here's how I did the job:1. disconnect battery's negative terminal; remove air filter case cover and the tube attached to it, and 3 small things attached to the tube2. disconnect the coolant tube(it's blocking the way to access the plastic wire channel), plug it to prevent leaking3. the plastic wire channel is right above the cam synchronizer and it's a big headache, here's how I tackled it:3.1. pop the upper half of the plastic wire channel(that is, separate it from the bottom half), move it upwards to give room;3.2. use a string to tie the wire bundle upwards, out of the way;(I also need to remove some tape to separate the wires from the bottom half of the wire channel)3.3. for the bottom half of the wire channel, I drilled a hole in there, then used a string to tie it upwards as much as possible, to give some room4. unscrew the bolts on the cam position sensor, remove the sensor5. see if the alignment tool fits the synchronizer; if not, that means the engine is not at TDC, you need to jack up the front passenger side, remove the tire, pop the plastic thingy behind the wheel, and use a socket to turn the crank pulley bolt clockwise, until the alignment tool matches the synchronizer perfectly; take a picture, mark the position of the arrow on the alignment tool6. unscrew the hold-down bolt for the synchronizer, pull the old synchronizer out; if it's too tight, shake it back and forth, then use a flat-head screwdriver to pry it up from the bottom7. put the alignment tool on the new synchronizer, and put the new one into the hole, feel it in different positions back and forth, and settle on the spot that's closest to the original position but a bit to the left(that is, a bit off on the counter-clockwise side, because it will turn clockwise when you push it down further), push it down or use a hammer to slightly hit it(on the collar) down until the collar touches the base; check if the arrow on the alignment tool is around the same position as the old one8. put the hold-down bolt back on, put on the new sensor, put everything back. Take a drive to see if the chirping is gone.This product saved me $500+ on this engine-related problem, I'm very happy with this purchase.
BDC
Reviewed in the United States on February 23, 2011
My 2001 Taurus started having a squeaking sound coming from the drivers/transmission side of the engine compartment. After doing some research online I read that the cam shaft synchronizer starts to go around 100,000k miles.Reading tutorials online say you need to rotate the engine to cylinder 1 TDC to change this. I have an easier way to find TDC that worked perfect!- Start by removing the throttle cable cover and disconnect both throttle cables and lay them back.- Remove the small coolant hose attached to the t-stat.- There will be a plastic cover surrounding a wiring harness laying on top of the cam synchronizer. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the two plastic half's apart. Removing the tape allows you to move the plastic guard/wires independently, which helps get them out of the way. I tied a knot around the wires/plastic guard and pulled the string back and tied it off on the windshield wiper.- Disconnect the wire harness from the cam synchronize.- Remove the cap from the cam synchronizer- You will see a small tab sticking up. You want to rotate the motor so that the tab lines up with the opening on the top of the synchronizer. I did this by using a pry bar on the 4 water pump pulley bolts. You'll only be able to go one way.- Once the tab is lined up with the notch, place the calibration tool on the synchronizer in the vehicle. Use a flat edge/ruler to draw a line on the intake manifold that lines up the arrow on the alignment tool. This step is vitally important so you don't throw off your engine timing.- Remove the cap and remove the bolt/washer that is holding the synchronizer in.- Drive a small flat blade screwdriver between the cam synchronizer and engine block and twist. Make sure you have removed the alignment cap because you will break it if when you pull out the synchronizer. The tab inside will rotate as it's pulling away from the camshaft! Remove the synchronizer from the vehicle.- This is the hairy part. Place the cap back on the new synchronizer and set it in the approximate location, lining up the line you drew with the arrow on the cap while also being aware of sliding the tip over the oil pump driving rod.- Remove the cap, being careful not to twist the body of the synchronizer. Turn the tab slightly ahead of it's location. It will twist back into the proper position, lined up with the opening, as you finish setting the synchronizer into position. You may need to use a rubber mallet to make sure the unit is flush with the intake manifold.- A properly inserted synchronizer unit will allow you to place the alignment tool cap back on the synchronizer in the vehicle and have the line you drew, line up with the cap's arrow.- Promptly secure the synchronizer with the bolt/washer.- Reconnect all wires and hoses.- Start your vehicle and enjoy over $500 in savings in parts and labor.
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