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Your cart is empty.Clutch master cylinder leaking or malfunctioning? This direct replacement is precision-engineered to match the original equipment design in specific vehicle years, makes and models for a reliable replacement. This part is compatible with the following vehicles. Before purchasing, enter your vehicle trim in the garage tool to confirm fitment. [Chevrolet HHR: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011]
Rhonda Hardy
Reviewed in the United States on November 3, 2024
The part was not compatible with my car it was big enough to wear when I tried to put it in and broke so I would like to get a refund and go somewhere and get the part that isn't compatible one that is for my car
Christophers Wholesale
Reviewed in the United States on March 18, 2021
Excellent DORMAN OEM identical branded part. Less than HALF the price here than at every auto parts store around me.2009 Chevy HHR 5 speed.I did not actually need this as a retaining clip failed on the old one at 186k miles, so a 12 cent spring steel flare end line retaining clip would have fixed it, however that part was not available anywhere. Easy fix for that, replacing this in an HHR requires removal of the entire electrical panel system, relay and fuse blocks, all harnesses moved and the PCM from the drivers side engine bay.1) do not overbend the brake master fluid FEED line (molded plastic and not in stock anywhere) just snap the old clutch nipple off as close to the base as possible and then spin the line down and towards the front of the car using the brake master cyl connection as pivot point, then hit the 2 side buttons and remove the broken off nipple from the clip2) It takes about 1/3 to 1/2 turn clockwise to uninstall the cylinder. Counterclockwise to install, use some brake fluid to lube the grommet/rubber on the cyl. Its a tight fit, use 45 degree long handled needlenose to install/remove. Careful with the new ones nipples, its cheap plastic and they will either break right off or crack and leak.3) lastly, DO NOT install either line until the cylinder is fully installed and seated / locked in (also the pedal connection) then install the master brake reservoir to clutch master cyl feed (bottom line) first, then the slave cyl pressure line last.Advice: the battery MUST be disconnected first. Make sure to tie a rag thru the hatch latch loop so the hatch cannot be shut and locked... the rear hatch is 100% electronically actuated and if a well meaning friend (or wife) shuts the hatch - well, youre going to have to crawl over the rear seat and into a cramped and tiny compartment to reconnect the battery to open the hatch etc.Lastly, bleeding the air out of the line is almost impossible. There is no option to bleed the line that ive found..Pumping the hell out of it had varying (and temporary) results - dont forget that you may have the clutch to the floor, and it will signal a start condition to the pcm BUT STILL BE IN GEAR. You hit the starter and away you go, clutch pedal on the floor. For the first start at least have front wheels off the ground.I eventually resorted to using an HVAC vacuum pump on the brake master cylinder for about 1 hour while occasionally pumping the clutch a few dozen times. That has worked well.Good luck!
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