Not terribly difficult to install. It fit perfectly inside of my 2023 ROVE LITE RV. I bought it to replace the original heater which had frozen and the lines had burst. I was careful to be sure it was properly winterized this year to avoid a repeat repair!

I bought this unit not thinking what could happen down the road. Mine came up with 3 errors and stopped working and then I started smelling gas 1 month in. The ad fails to tell you that you only have a 30 day warranty. It also fails to tell you it doesn't come with a door so you will need to put out more. All said, I am out the cost of the door, which I still have and lost my refund. It's a costly lesson well learnt. I wish I would have looked at building centers first, much cheaper.

My wife and I are Full Time RV'rs. We roll in a 2016 Coachman Pursuit 32 ft Class A. Our hot water tank split and was totally trashed. After lots of research we opted to go tankless. Again, lots of research brought me to this unit. I have to tell you the install was very easy. If you have just basic skills and knowledge you can install this yourself. Make sure you have a roll of Butyl Tape and for us a small junction box. After removing the old unit, we installed a small junction box to connect the 12 volt power right off the furnace that sits next to the water heater. I also replaced both water line connections with new ones. I opted to use the steel mesh lines like the ones used on washer machines. Gas line connection was easy peasy. The only thing you don't get is the door cover. You can not use the old door cover because the exhaust system is completely different. The one that is recommended with this unit fit perfect. The gas usage is 100% more efficient than before. As you know throughout any 24 hour period the gas would light off and reheat the water in the tank as the temp dropped. And if you really needed to use it for say a shower, you need to shower fast. 6 Gallons does not last long. With tankless. The gas fires off ONLY when you open a hot water valve. After about 15 to 20 seconds you have wonderful hot water. This unit claims that it can run continuous for almost 2 hours. Have not tried it but our showers are now wonderful. The control panel is simple. It is preset at 115 degrees. you can change it up or down at your pleasure. We have found 115 is perfect for us. So far this has been a great unit and the replacement cost for my original unit, 6 gallons, gas fired.....was 811.00. So this purchase with the door, saved me 300,00. Its a great unit and we love it!!!!

I'm in BC and winter temps get to -10c max in my area. Unit worked well at that temperature on 40 PSI water. The freeze protection worked well.What is important to remember with these heaters is that they need consistent water flow to get the most consistent (and hot) temperature. In my case, park water is consistent at 40 PSI. The heater works well at that pressure pretty much any time of year.In the winter, the inlet water temp is close to freezing. That means the heater has a harder time making it hotter than in the summer when the inlet water temp is warmer.So...ideally you want less flow in the winter, and more flow in the summer. That gets you lower pressure in the winter and higher pressure in the summer.I tend to like high water pressure so I tend to run off the pump. What I did was restrict the water flow to the heater with a flow restrictor rated at 1 GPM. I then use a Remco Aquajet pump rated at 5.5 GPM. So the pump is overkill. As such, the pump tends to cycle which means the temperature and pressure in the shower fluctuates because the pressure fluctuates. An accumulator will help smooth that out a great deal of you have a large one. Mine is 7 gallons. But it does still fluctuate.I addressed that by adding a PWM controller to the power feed to the pump. What Pulse Width Modulation does is allow you to adjust the speed at which the pump runs. In other words, with the shower on full hot, I can adjust the speed of the pump so that it remains below the cut-out point and maintains the same pressure for the entire shower. This means the water heater sees even flow the entire time and the highest possible pressure without fluctation.In the winter I slow the pump to 30% and in the summer I can run it at 70%. I slow it to 30% in the winter so the water stays in the heat exchanger for a longer period of time. It can be sped up in the summer because the incoming water temp is much higher.You don't need to do anything elaborate like that. I found that if you limit the pressure to 40-42 PSI it works fine all year round. Most inexpensive pumps run at that pressure and you can easily install an adjustable water pressure regulator on your inlet and set it to the same. You should have one of those anyway.....to protect your unit from parks with very high pressure.I do have an issue with the ECO triggering an E3 error from time to time. E3 means that the water temp in the exchanger is over 140F and it shuts down to protect you from burns. This is exacerbated by running the heater at 124F which I like.The E3 is triggered by a thermostatic snap switch that breaks the circuit. This is a common snap disk that can be gotten on Amazon. I will try a 160F snap disk and I bet that will case it.I like the heater. It does work. Just bear in mind, if you're not seeing the temps you think you should, or you think it's a POS, adjust the water pressure going to it to 40-42 PSI and you should find it works well. It really is that simple. Installation is also very easy.The only reason I post my way of doing it is because I like high pressure and water temperature. Right now I have 90 PSI water pressure that fills the sink very fast with a temperature that is just scalding. In other words, perfect for me.

Now that we have survived extreme cold weather, -40 for almost a week I thought it was time to give a review.I was nervous knowing what our Winters could be like, but I bought it anyways. When I contacted the dealer for tips for cold weather they told me I should shut it down. Which was not an option.When we hit zero my neighbor told me to turn on the tap and let it drip. So I did. Around -10 there was a day that I accidentally turned it off and the unit froze. I opened the hot water tap then went outside turned off the unit and with my blow dryer, heated up the unit until I could hear the water running and then turned the unit back on. As the temperatures dropped I opened the tap a little bit more until there was a steady light flow but without igniting the unit on.FD - freeze detector comes on regularly.Other than me shutting off the tap I've had no concerns.As we crept up past -30 a new error code showed S2- which means the unit is struggling to ignite. At first I would just turn the tap on and then that seem to trigger the pilot light and bring heat and the unit would be fine but, then I noticed my furnace was starting to struggle. And through troubleshooting I came to learn that propane doesn't properly convert to gases when it becomes -30 or colder out.So I wrapped my propane tank, wrapped the copper lines from the tank to my home and put a small space heater on low in my undercarriage.So all in all, no issues with the unit it survived -40 - if you live in similar conditions the key is to keep the water running. And if you hit -30 or colder keep the propane tank insulated.Would definitely recommend!

Replaced my Atwood 6 Gallon with the Girard 2GWHAM as I full time in my RV. It's been a few months now of constant use and long showers and it doesn't have any problems.Make sure you have at least 1/2 lines and 40psi water pressure. Anything less and the heat exhanger can over heat and it will show an e3 code and it won't light until the heat exchanger cools down.People complain about the door options but if you do your research you will get it right. They have the information on their website and it tells you what door you'll need for what water heater you're replacing.They don't include the doors because there are a couple different options and it wouldn't be cost effective to have all the doors includedI had to adapt Polybrutal to Pex but no big deal.One of the best comfort upgrades you can make in your RVPlease check your water lines and gas line for leaks and get professional installation if you are not confident there will be no leaks in your install.Happy RVing!K9ADVCRU.

The monitor allows for simple adjustment of the water temperature. It is a great feature. The monitor also has a red LED and a green LED. Nowhere in the instructions does it explain the meaning of the LED’s. Apparently, the red LED means that the unit is armed. I still don’t know what the green LED means but I can switch it off and on. It doesn’t seem to matter.I bought this to replace a 6-gal tank unit which froze and burst. When I opened the Girard's white control box cover to inspect the circuit board, I found that the blower wiring harness was pinched during assembly between the box housing and the box cover possibly damaging the wires: just another example of lousy workmanship, poor supervision, and lack of quality control. To be fair, I find poor workmanship and manufacturing defects everywhere I go. Winterization is a problem because there is no way to drain the unit without draining the water system and blowing air through it. Otherwise, you need to maintain LP gas and 12V DC power to the unit to protect itself, or antifreeze the whole water system. This is important because if you drive/pull your RV through freezing temperatures, the heat exchanger could freeze because it is exposed to the outside air through the door vent and your propane needs to be shut off when you are on the road. I don’t like that because the rest of my water system is insulated and my fresh water tank is electrically heated to prevent freezing so that I can camp in freezing weather with liquid water, even without propane, and I wouldn’t have to drain the whole water system (and blow air through it) every time I drive through the mountains or spend a cold night in the desert without propane on. How is one going to blow air through the heat exchanger when on the road? Hot water tanks, by comparison, are insulated and come with a drain plug. This on-demand unit needs a drain valve so I tapped my water line at the lowest point next to the Girard unit and installed my own drain just for the hot water circuit. I may have voided the warranty by doing this but the warranty does not cover damage due to freezing. See attached photos.UPDATEThis water heater works great and has the best features. I found a defective pipe weld but I still think this product merits 4.625 stars. To be fair, I find defects in EVERYTHING!I sprung a leak in the water inlet pipe that the pressure relief valve is connected to. It happened when the temperature went down to 32°F for about an hour and I did not have 12Vdc power applied. The pipe that was damaged is only a $29-dollar part but a lot of work to replace.I highly recommend checking the pressure relief valve adjustment after installing the unit. This is not covered in the manual. It’s the thing that looks like a splined shaft in the bottom right.To adjust the pressure relief valve, turn the inside (core) of the relief valve with a flat screwdriver until water comes out with water pressure applied, then turn the core until the water stops.When I installed my unit, I also installed a drain valve in the lowest part of my hot water system so I would not have trouble winterizing in storage but I eventually discovered that I could have accomplished the same thing by removing the pressure relief valve assy by unscrewing it from the joint on the water inlet pipe. You can accomplish this by turning the splined shaft counterclockwise until it separates from the water inlet pipe. You will still need to blow some air through the system to get all of the water out.For all-season use, I think this is better than using an tank-type unit.

Update after 2 years of use:Well, it turns out it can't handle the cold water coming from our well during the fall & winter. It struggled to get the temp above 41°C, and in the deep -30°C it froze a few times and struggled to get the water above 37°C, despite it's freeze protection. During the spring and summer this unit has been flawless and only had a part break once. Support is good when you call in, so I still back this company, I just wish they could output more BTU!Also, the 2nd tankless I use for my heated floors works, but can't get the temperature high enough to warm my floors enough since it shuts off when hot water is detected coming into the unit.Initial Review Below:There are tons of tankless systems our there and it's definitely hard to choose. We ended up going with this one because it's specifically winterized (automatically clicks on to prevent the heat exchange from freezing) and because the igniter is 12v powered, making it ideal for off-grid setups like mine.The installation is pretty simple; you cut a 13" x 13" hole and slide it in, hookup the gas line, water inlets/outlets and the 12V wires, and you're basically done. You can also easily wire the display somewhere other than where the heater is, so to adjust the temp you don't need to goto the back shed as pictured in my photos.The unit does not come with a door like in my pictures; you have to buy that separately. That may seem annoying, but I think the unit would just be priced higher if it did, and perhaps some people don't need the door at all. I'm not sure.The unit has worked well every time, and we get hot water in about 3 - 6 seconds after turning it on. Considering the water we're piping into it is quite cold coming from a well, I think that's pretty efficient. We tend to fill a bucket with the first bit of cold water and pour that into our Berkey to use for drinking water.I haven't used the unit for more then about 3 months so far, so we'll see how it performs in our cold Canadian winters where we can experience -30C.The water heater has beeped a few times and an error shows on the display. Simply turning off the faucet and turning it back on seemed to fix it. Could be to do with the flow rate, again, not sure.I'm actually purchasing a 2nd one of these to pump hot water into a tank that we'll be using in a closed loop system for hydronic heated floors. Wow, that sentence was a mouthful. Will report back to see if it all works out! We couldn't figure out a way to use one water heater for both applications, since the heated floors need to contain corn-based glycol to prevent them from freezing.I'm not a plumber or electrician and have very little experience with this stuff, and was still able to get it all working, so you should too! Good luck.

Installed 1 year now and I can’t wait till it breaks so I can replace it with hopefully something that works right. It works just enough to keep me from ripping it out of my RV and throwing it in the dumpster for the amount of money I paid for it.Here’s the problem, it can’t keep up with any sensible amount of water flow. I set it at 120F, I bought an expensive commercial grade water regulator after the cheap ones didn’t help. I’ve adjusted the built in regulator and it still can’t keep up. At first it could keep up with the kitchen sink, but never the shower. After 1 year of use it can’t even keep up with the kitchen sink now.I have to turn the hot flow on the shower so far down that hot water only trickles out for it to reach anything over 90 degrees. Turn the water flow a hair up and it will not heat anywhere near my 120 degree set point. Turn the water down to a trickle and I can walk it up to about 118 degrees but if I turn the water pressure down any lower its built in sensor doesn’t see the water flow and it shuts down completely. The water flow is such a balancing act that what tends to happen is when my hair and face are covered in shampoo it thinks there’s no water flow and it shuts down, instantly blasting you with freezing cold water. If I increase the hot water flow it can’t heat the water fast enough.It almost works like a dream, it just needs a few tweeks in its design to be perfect, but as it is its worthless and will anger even the most passive person trying to use it to take a hot shower. They just need to slightly increase the size or capacity of the heat exchanger portion so it can keep up with normal water flow and pressure. They also need to make the water flow sensor a little more sensitive to lower water flow so when you do have to turn it down lower to keep up it doesn’t just shut off. I can not believe they didn’t see these obvious problems with it during the testing phase prior to putting into production and on the market, they were so close to nailing it.