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C. Grooms
Reviewed in the United States on February 25, 2024
Heating element in my iron gave up the ghost after 10 years and this brought it back to life. Only drawback is that you need to have a soldering iron to install it.
Nairut
Reviewed in the United States on January 29, 2022
works in the Tilswall solder station iron.
Goredox
Reviewed in the United States on September 11, 2020
Looks like genuine Hakko. Works fine.
Alex Krieger
Reviewed in the United States on July 2, 2020
I didn't know why my soldering iron wasn't getting hot enough where the display was saying the iron was at 800 but would barely melt solder and buried in the manual was a diagnostic for testing the resistance between two traces on the heating element. After finding out my multimeter was not giving a stable reading either, I ordered this replacement element which fixed the problem. Also had to order a soldering iron to fix a soldering iron :)
ECE.Misho
Reviewed in the United States on June 28, 2020
It's time to give my beloved FX888D a new live after serving me for many years..orignal (Made in Japan)
MadScientist
Reviewed in the United States on October 18, 2020
This is the manufacturers replacement heating device for my soldering station. Lately I have been unable to get consistently high temperatures for the work being done. I calibrated the device which helped a little but still not reliable. I have a feeling that after leaving the device on for several days on occasion was the problem.Bit the bullet and bought the OEM replacement unit. I suppose if you own a dedicated soldering station you know how to solder, which is definitely required to replace the heating unit. Went in easy and now the temps are solid, stable, and high enough to do the work.Good product. Good company.
t1d
Reviewed in the United States on August 20, 2019
Hakko FX-888D Heating Element Replacement TipsThis process has some dangers. Do not attempt it, unless you have the proper skills and tools. I accept no liability for any loss, or harm.Yes, I know that it takes a soldering iron to do this repair. And, it contains tips for repairing a tip. What else you got?I found the whole process of replacing the heating element to be a little fiddly. But, I am not so young anymore. Here is the procedure that I used to make things go more smoothly; the tips are intended to supplement the instructions that come with the replacement element, not replace those instructions. So, read them before beginning and keep the pamphlet at hand.1) Cut the old element’s wires, before desoldering them, to keep them from being a heat sink and to give better access for the soldering iron tip. Remove the heating element, save the white insulation tube for some future project and properly dispose of the old element.2) Secure the extra tiny wires out of the way to prevent melting them. I used a toothless alligator clip.3) Desolder the remaining wire bits.4) On the new heating element, slide the red and blue wire covers forward until they cover their lead wires completely. Super-Glue these in place.5) Slide the white insulation tube forward until its PCB board end is 64mm from the tip end of the heating element. See the instructions. The cover may not be over the heating element, so Super-Glue it to the red and blue covers.6) Slide the heating element assembly into the spring, before soldering. Divide the red wires from the blue wires with the PCB board. Be mindful to put their colors on the proper side of the board.7) Insert the red wires into their pad holes. Adjust their length so that the white insulation tube abuts the PCB. Double check that the tip end of the heating element will be 64mm from the end of the PCB.8) Solder the red wires, now, before you insert the blue wires into their pad holes, because the blue wires will be on top of the red wires’ soldering pads. Clinch the wires down hard against the PCB, to prevent them from piercing the blue wires. Clean the top of the PCB, now, because the blue wires will prevent access for this operation, too.9) Insert the blue wires into their pad holes and solder. Clean this side of the PCB.10) Test the assembly for dead shorts, with a multimeter. Also test all resistances, per the instructions.I hope this helps and that you are successful. Happy soldering!
MarbleTech
Reviewed in the United States on October 9, 2018
This was an easy swap. You just need (a bit ironically) a soldering iron. The wires are installed in the board with the shortest wire going to the closest hole and so on, so it is easy to see what should connect to where on the board. Simple desolder, clean, and resolder. Once you have it back together, check your resistances before turning on. Between the two heating element red wires, the resistance should be 2.5-3.5 ohms. Between the two blue wires, the resistance should be 43-58 ohms. Between pin 3 on the connector and the tip of the iron when it is completely assembled should be less than 2 ohms. If it is greater, take a little sandpaper and sand the parts shown in the diagram.Overall, it went smoothly and the soldering iron is back up and running.
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