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Honda 16100-Z0L-853 Carburetor

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$22.71

$ 11 .99 $11.99

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About this item

  • Brand New Genuine Honda Carburetor... Carburetor Assembly Genuine Honda Part # 16100-Z0L-853 Fits Specific Honda GCV160A, GCV160LA & GCV160LAO Model Engines Does NOT Include Gaskets NOT Aftermarket, Genuine OEM Honda Carburetor



MCBCL10
Reviewed in the United States on February 10, 2025
direct replacement, worked well
Starrynight
Reviewed in the United States on May 9, 2024
The carburetor went bad on my push mower. I tried an aftermarket carb, and it caused carbon fouling. I ordered this oem carb. It arrived quickly. I installed it and my mower runs like a champ. Get one.
chuck coats
Reviewed in the United States on December 19, 2024
Worked perfectly
Charles Mathews
Reviewed in the United States on June 7, 2023
Value for the money
Humperdinck Hackensack
Reviewed in the United States on April 21, 2022
Delivered very well packed in multiple layers of bubble wrap in a sealed Honda OEM parts bag. Perfect fit for my Huskee lawnmower with Honda engine GCV160lA0 S3A NH1 series GJARA. The black tab on the hybrid choke was correctly placed and the right height to engage the choke arm. Fuel intake also correctly placed for this model. Order a gasket set (does not come with this product) and it's a real snap to replace the old carb. Hadn't run this engine for 4 years, started up on the first pull! I had also replaced the engine oil, spark plug, and air filter for good measure, and of course FUEL! Very satisfied with this purchase. There were others that were cheaper and/or came with gaskets, but the model # was slightly different and none were genuine Honda OEM. Would purchase again, though hopefully that won't be necessary.
Douglas G.
Reviewed in Canada on September 1, 2021
The carburetor was for my Honda 5.5 mower engine. It works like new!
Ron Neave
Reviewed in Canada on May 10, 2019
Fit and work Easy to install and started the engine right away
Brent
Reviewed in Canada on September 21, 2018
perfect fit.
R. B. Farley
Reviewed in the United States on April 2, 2018
I was pleasantly surprised with how easy this was to replace. On my particular lawnmower, there are only two bolts that hold the carburetor in place. They go through the air filter assembly so that has to come off too. The only real issue I had was I couldn't see behind the air filter assembly until after I had pulled the carburetor away from the engine, photo attached. I'm not a mechanic and I wasn't able to find what the parts in question are really called, so I called them Bob and Todd. Basically, Bob (which is part of the choke assembly) needs to be to the right side of Todd, as you are looking at the engine with the front to your left, or the engine won't start. Seems Bob is what opens Todd, who is an air valve. After getting those lined up correctly, my mower started right up. The air intake hose, fuel line, governor and throttle spring need to be removed as well to replace the carburetor. I bought a gasket set too but only used one new gasket as the others were in good shape.
Bob Earle
Reviewed in Canada on November 4, 2017
perfect fit. mower runs like new again.
RD Elson
Reviewed in Canada on June 25, 2016
Carb was delivered as promised. It fit and worked perfectly. Thank you for a great transaction.
Brad
Reviewed in the United States on August 29, 2014
I have a lawn mower with a GVC160-LAO, and this fits perfectly. Unlike the picture, the one I got had a pin sticking up from the choke lever that makes it work perfectly with the auto off choke on my mower. Took me about 20 minutes to change out. Mower started on the very first pull and runs like new.A couple tips... don't "remove" the screws that hold this to the engine. Get them completely loose so they aren't catching any thread in the holes in the engine, but don't remove. CAREFULLY pull the carb off the engine, trying not to tear the gasket. 99% of the time, you can reuse the gaskets. Keeping the screws through the carb keeps all the gaskets and spacers and such in the right orientation and right order. Take a picture of the holes in the throttle lever the linkage and spring attaches to so you'll know you are hooking them back correctly. The linkage is just a Z shape in the end of the wire you have to wiggle out. Pull gaskets and spacers off the screws CAREFULLY, avoiding tearing, and stack them up on a clean surface the way you pulled them off to make it easier to put them back in the right order and orientation. Once you've pulled the old carb off, just put everything back the way you took it off. If you have a choke like mine that shuts itself off after 5-6 seconds, make sure the lever sticking out of the engine to engage the choke is sticking straight out, or even slightly to the right as you put the carb on. If you accidentally move it to the left, it will not engage the choke. Don't forget to stick the crankcase vent hose back in the hole in the engine like I did. You'll suck in a bunch of dirty air behind the air filter.
C Garner
Reviewed in the United States on July 9, 2014
I've got an older pressure washer with the Honda GCV 160 engine in it (N5A version) and the previous carb was eaten up pretty badly inside the bowl. This carb fit perfectly and was fairly easy to replace. It does NOT come with new gaskets, but you should be able to reuse your existing ones with a little care.Prior to working on the engine, be sure to siphon as much gas as you can out of the tank and have a mason jar to catch the spillage that's still in the carb and lines.For replacement, there are three bolts that hold the airbox onto the side of the engine. One is short and holds the airbox to the stamped metal frame that braces the gas line and throttle linkages. The other two are longer and pass through the carb into the block of the engine. If you remove all three bolts, the air cleaner assembly and carb all detach fairly easily from the engine. Pay close attention to the links and springs when you disconnect, along with the gaskets and remember the order that they were taken off. (A couple of snaps with a digital camera helps here). Pull off the gas line and secondary air intake (short rubber tube) and set the old carb aside. (Catch the gas that runs out in the mason jar...)You reassemble by connecting the gas line and then using one of the longer bolts to line things up, then the 2nd longer bolt to finish aligning and get the whole assembly hanging on the block. Press on the secondary air hose prior to tightening anything down. Also, remember that you'll need a gasket between the aircleaner box and frame, another between the frame and carb, and a third between the carb and engine block. Tighten just tighter than you'd seal a jar of peanut butter (about 10 in-lbs), then connect the linkages/springs and add the third shorter bolt.If you're connected right, the manual choke will open and close the little butterfly plate on the front of the carb. Put on a fresh filter, close it all up, fill with non-ethanol gas and fire her up!(Editor's Note: Small engines just _don't_ run well on ethanol. Go find somebody in town that will sell you real gas and buy a five gallon can full. Use it for all your small engines; lawnmower, chainsaws, weedeater, etc. Use Sta-bil or another fuel stabilizer, too, and you'll not have much, if any trouble out of your small engines. Be sure to run them completely out of gas at the end of the season and they'll start right up next year!)Hope this helps!
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