Running a Traxxas Slash 2WD with monster truck tires and raked suspension... So it doesn't handle well. Lifts the inside rear tire up during any type of loaded turns and has huge amounts of body roll. Installed these bars earlier today with the medium rear bar and the stiff front bar and WOW. Truck handles amazing now! Maybe too good, as it will just roll over under hard corning instead of understeering... Probably need to to medium front and light rear bars on this setup... Definitely happy with the performance so far. Hopefully they hold up to my careless bashing.

The fromt set up works well. The rear is another story. You will need to add longer links and change to position of support bracket. Too bad you need extra parts and without instructions its trial and error. The rear is so poorly designed that the sway bar acts like a torsion bar. You really need to know how to set it up in the first place. I moved and friged with it for two hours before I could get it to work. Sabe your money and get one that fits.

There is so much info about this set up on youtub that will confuse even a seasoned mechanic. OK so I went to what I know from racing sprint cars and how stuff works in real racing applications. Front is a no brainer, easy set up as there is really no other way to do it but if you slap on one of those “oversized” shocks you will have clearance issues and will have to start modifying how you attach the linkage to the control arms and thus making all connections weaker and potential for failure starts to creep up. I was not happy with the way it was designed for the rear. Complete junk, it does not work like anti-roll bars should work, and yes someone will say its just an RC car. Ok, but it should be functional and provide the benefits of the function that anti-roll bars are designed to do. So, after doing so much research this is my take on it. I have an aluminum shock tower so my attachment points were limited to only one spot, however you could use original plastic shock tower and make new holes to attach the bracket lower if you can get the right clearance to allow the anti-roll bar to articulate correctly with the control arms. So, for my set up I looked at how real Trophy Trucks set up their suspension and went that way. Amazing it works!!!In pictures, you can see that I mounted the bracket to hide the bar inside the groove and sit flush against the shock tower. The reason for that is that there was so much side to side movement that if mounted the other way you loose all the benefit of the anti-roll bar function as it will slide out of position and bind or break. So we fixed one problem. Another issue you will have to deal with is actually easy fix. You will need to do away with the junk linkage for the rear. But you will need the Ball attachment so you can properly attach the bar to the linkage that is attached to the control arm (see picture). What I did was pretty simple, I took the stock rear camber linkage that has plastic ends and pressed out the ball hinge out and used the HR ball hinge that has the set screw that holds the bar in it. You have to press hard to get it in but its plastic and its not a critical attachment like the control arm, so no worries it will be fine. In the pictures this was a proof of concept, so the linkage is still aluminum with the plastic top that has the ball hinge. I have since reworked the set up as per notes above and it is very good and simple and it actually works like it should.Now, not ideal to use anti-roll bars of same thickness front and back for an off-road application, I have blue in front and silver in the back. This will help with cornering on flat smooth surface, not so much off-road. If you really want to improve cornering of your Slash 2WD, best upgrade is LCG center tray.I kept my stock because we will be doing a lot of off-road driving and this works for us.Hope this helps you guys, have fun!

No instructions. Requires some fab skills to get the rear to work correctly

I should have of watched some YouTube videos before I bought these. The fronts will work OK, assuming you have a stock Slash bumper setup. You need the stock Slash upper "cushion" piece to mount the front bar bracket. The rear is another matter all together. By design, they will not work as a sway bar. The angle is incorrect and will only bind the suspension. If you get creative, they can be made to work. This entails cutting the rear tower or using collars to mount in flat at the front tower to chassis joint.Since this is for a drag car, I shouldn't of gone the cheap route and just bought the Drag Racing Concepts system to begin with. Not to say this will never work, it just will never work as well or be as clean.

You’ll have to drill if you have rpm control arms

It seem to do great in the front It’s stiffened up the rear suspension quite a bit. almost too much, but this was remedied with using the lighter springs and sway bar I see the set up on a lot of cars.

This is a great anti sway bar set for the Slash. It helps a lot for eliminating body roll. The only issue I had was that one set of screws were too short. They need to be 5mm longer to install it properly.

Awesome upgrade to my Slash 2wd. It's only for the Slash 2wd. You are going to have to have stock a arms and front bumper to mount this kit. Really reduces the body roll slot.

I bought these for my Traxxas Nitro Slash and they work great. I do Late Model racing with it and the car now hugs the corners. I would have given the item 5 stars but there are no instruction at all. So I had to sit down and look and try and figure out the right way to put them on to make them work. The Fronts went on all to well, no modifications at all. The Rear was a different story altogether. I had to sit down and try to put the puzzle together without the picture, but when I figured out the picture they went on all to well. I am just hoping that they get some more in stock cause I have a bunch of racers that are very interested in this item for future purchases.