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About Instant Install 29 and EZ-Tint
Instant Install 29
- Offers lifelong, permanent repair durability that will never wear off or wash away
- 100 percent safe for contact with surfaces that may encounter food (e.g., kitchen countertops)
- Easy to use for the do-it-yourself (DIY) homeowner or the professional
EZ-Tint
- Black, brown, green, white, and yellow are the 5 primary colors found in stone
- Easy color matching
- Superior to liquid tints which frequently migrate out of repairs, especially where food and water are present
- Never leach out of repairs
- Highly concentrated: a little tints a lot!
Intended Uses
- Countertop installation
- Cracks
- Gouges
- Pits
- Reattaching/rebuilding missing stone
Repair-Specific Instructions
Note: For more detailed instructions, please see the "Instructions for Use" module below
- Chipped Stone: No tint is needed if you have a clean break. Apply the epoxy to one side and push the stone firmly into place. Clamp the stone or use duct tape for a tight hold while drying and for less visible seams
- Countertop Installation: No joint line taping is needed as the dried epoxy does not stick to smooth surfaces. Mix equal parts hardener and resin and apply the epoxy to one or both edges of the stone. Clamp the stone for maximum bond strength. Let the epoxy cure and then razor off the excess in approximately 30 minutes once the epoxy is dry-to-touch
- Cracks: The width of the crack must be at least as wide as a credit card for the epoxy to be able to fill it. Tint the epoxy and fill the crack to the surface. Allow the epoxy to self-level for a glossy finish. For a matte/travertine type finish, razor the dried surface
- Rebuilding Missing Chips: Tint and fill chip the with epoxy, shape the epoxy into place, let it dry, and razor off the excess
Benefits and Features
- Can be used as an adhesive for countertop installation
- Can be used with any natural or man-made stones (e.g., granite, marble, quartz, tile)
- Do-it-yourself (DIY) friendly with professional results
- Fixes cracks and chips
- Forgiving 15-minute workable time
- Non-toxic/food-safe formula
- Permanent bond
- Quick 14-minute drying time
- Quick-set epoxy
- Tint-able with EZ-Tint for easy color matching
- Two-part epoxy: Hardener and resin
Instructions for Use
Rebuilding Missing Chips
Note: Reattaching broken pieces rarely requires tinting unless some pieces are missing
- Remove the protective film that forms over the hardener. Dip out equal amounts of hardener and resin using individual dipping sticks
- Mix the hardener and resin together thoroughly on a flat surface (e.g., paper plate)
- If needed, add in small amounts of EZ-Tint to the mixed epoxy until the desired color is achieved
- Fill the chip. Try not to overfill it
- On profiled edges/vertical repairs, tape down the shaping strip over the epoxy
- Allow 30 to 45 minutes for the epoxy to dry
- Slowly peel back the shaping strip
- Make sure the epoxy is dry-to-touch and razor off the dried excess. The epoxy will not stick to smooth surfaces
- Instant Install 29 will cure to a glossy finish. For a matte/travertine-type finish, razor the dried surface
Repairing Horizontal or Vertical Cracks
Note: The epoxy may need to be forced into finer cracks using a plastic putty knife
- Remove the protective film that forms over the hardener. Dip out equal amounts of hardener and resin using individual dipping sticks
- Mix the hardener and resin together thoroughly on a flat surface (e.g., paper plate)
- Add in small amounts of EZ-Tint to the mixed epoxy until the desired color is achieved. Use a plastic putty knife for large cracks. Try not to overfill the crack
- On vertical cracks (e.g., walls), tape down the shaping strip over the epoxy. Using the shaping strip on flat/horizontal cracks is optional as the epoxy will self-level
- Allow 30 to 45 minutes for the epoxy to dry
- Slowly peel back the shaping strip
- Make sure the epoxy is dry-to-touch and razor off the dried excess. The epoxy will not stick to smooth surfaces
- Instant Install 29 will cure to a glossy finish. For a matte/travertine-type finish, razor the dried surface
Countertop Installation
Note: No joint line taping is needed as the dried epoxy does not stick to smooth surfaces
- Remove the protective film that forms over the hardener
- Dip out equal amounts of hardener and resin using individual dipping sticks
- Mix the hardener and resin together thoroughly on a flat surface (e.g., paper plate)
- If needed, add in small amounts of EZ-Tint to the mixed epoxy until the desired color is achieved. If the joint lines will be tight, tinting is not necessary
- Apply epoxy to one or both edge(s)
- Clamp the stone tightly for maximum bond strength
- Allow 30 to 45 minutes for the epoxy to dry
- Make sure the epoxy is dry-to-touch and razor off the dried excess. The epoxy will not stick to smooth surfaces
- Instant Install 29 will cure to a glossy finish. For a matte/travertine-type finish, razor the dried surface
Mixing and Tinting Instructions
Step 1
Measure out and mix equal portions of hardener and resin
Note: Tinting is optional. However, if the epoxy will be visible, tinting is required, as the tint masks any yellowing or other discoloration that may occur over time
Step 2
Slowly add in tint to the mixed epoxy
Note: If using white tint, use equal parts hardener, resin, and tint to prevent any future yellowing or discoloration. For darker colors, less tint is needed
Step 3
Add tint until desired color is reached
Note: Black or white tint can be added to darken or lighten the shade of the epoxy. As can be seen in the chip repair video on this product page, small specks of tint can also be added in after the epoxy is applied to your repair to create multiple colors and striations that are often found in stone
Step 4
Razor away the dried excess epoxy. Razoring the cured surface will matte the finish if desired. If a glossy surface is desired, take care not to scrape the surface with the razor
Note: Your purchase includes a two-inch by four-inch clear shaping strip. Using the shaping strip is optional on flat surface repairs. On vertical surfaces, the shaping strip helps to keep the epoxy in place. On profiled edges like countertops, the shaping strip shapes the epoxy to the exact profile. Just use painter’s tape to tape the shaping strip down and keep it in place. In approximately 20 minutes, lift one edge of the shaping strip and ensure the epoxy is dry-to-touch. Once the epoxy has dried, the shaping strip will not stick to it and peels away easily
Good product, fast delivery, recommend seller!
Reviewed in the United States on March 17, 2025
Works great for tile and faux marble baths
elizabeth
Reviewed in the United States on July 22, 2024
Be sure to mix up copious quantities even for the smallest repair job. There's a great amount of waste to this product. Clean up is a chore that will last for days and days after the job is complete. Scraping off the excess product with a straight edge razor blade seems to be the only way to remove it. The product breaks up into tiny pieces like confetti. It sticks to everything and is difficult to clean later. The epoxy, however does the job it says it will do.
Gus Bynum
Reviewed in the United States on October 27, 2023
Repaired a broken corner on 1” thick marble table. It is thicker than I expected and does not squeeze out much even w clamping. No time to waste after mixing. Had to remix additional batch to finish. Seems very strong. The untinted dried a medium gray color. Razors off easily.
lph
Reviewed in the United States on January 1, 2023
I purchased this epoxy product back in April 2022 and again in Dec 2022. Worked great both times.Highly recommend!The first repair was to "clear" fill a crack in a marble floor where the slab under neath cracked. Next job was to filled travertine holes to keep dirt from accumulating. Note the cracks and holes must be completely free of dirt, oil, wax and water. The clear epoxy picks up the color of the marble and travertine and is almost invisible, matching the stone filler used by the factory.The Dec Job was to fill small chips 1/8" to 1/4" in a ceramic tile. The tile was a beige with brown/gray streaks. Since the chipped holes reveled the red/dark brow tile, the color needed to be matched. ordered the EZ-Tint 4 Pack color power pack recommended by the seller to mix with the epoxy. Unfortunately, I could not find a combination with these four color tints to match the tile. I went against the sellers recommendation no to use liquid tints. I bought a liquid tint specifically for epoxy gel coats ( Fasco Epoxies-Beige Pigment for Epoxy Resin, Gelcoat, Paint - 4 oz). To that I added Brown and Black EZ-Tint 4 Pack color power to get the shade I wanted. The critical thinag I learned by experimentation is the liquid color must be mixed into the "RED" Instant 29 material before mixing in the "Black" Instant 29 or the epoxy does not harden. Use only a small amount og liquid colorant to not screw up the epoxy.Note: any moisture, even high humidity prevents or inhibits epoxy from curing properly.I like to clean with MEK. Besides the razor for scraping excess, MEK can remove thin epoxy film in the first hour or two. Always work with small batches. Starts to gum/harden in about 15 minutes at 70F. Do not use gummy epoxy-it wont adhere and smooth properly. If you screw up use MEK to remove the epoxy before it cures. By the way MEK fumes are nasty. I suspect that those buyers who rated the product as poor may not have properly prepared the surface (i.e sand the underlying gel coat or fiberglass on their boat) or had too high of a moisture content on the part or in the air. While the manufacturer did not specify a minimum working temperature, I suggest you have the part you are repairing and air temperature above 60F. A lower temperature may not cause the necessary chemical reaction to harden the epoxy. Follow the instructions for best results.
blahblahblah
Reviewed in the United States on September 25, 2022
I bought this to fix a HEAVY concrete fountain. The bowl of this fountain is 36 inches wide and almost 3 inches thick. I'm guessing it weighs about 220 pounds empty. While moving it I set it down too roughly and it cracked just about in half, all the way through. I set it up on it's side so that the broken off part could rest straight down on the other half. After easily mixing about half of the product I slapped a generous helping on one half and set the broken half down on it. I used way too much adhesive but the squeeze out chipped off easily with a screw driver, just like they said it would, after about an hour.I waited until the next day as it was evening anyway and the bond was clearly rock-solid. Still, this thing is so heavy, and there is so much leverage from the size of the break, plus the probably 25 gallons of water that it holds ... but I needn't have worried! It never even thought about breaking while being man-handled and carried by the edge. And, not one drop has leaked after filling the fountain up. I have total confidence in the repair, which I did not expect.I'm totally impressed! None of the reviews I read described anywhere near this level of stress test. I honestly wasn't sure at all that it would work. The only think I might wish for is a solvent that could thin the consistency a bit. It's really thick, and because of that didn't compress quite as much as I would have liked to make an invisible repair - but to be fair, as I mentioned, I think I used way more than I should have in the first place.
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