Locking Roller Bridge for Epiphone Les Paul Guitar- Chrome

looks and works great

Nice bridge. I bought this bridge for a couple of reasons. One was that this particular guitar was having trouble staying in tune (Gibson style 3x3 headstock) after trying many things other than a string butler string tree and also, the stock bridge has sharp edged saddles that tend to dig into the hand when palm muting. This bridge fixed both issues and looks nice. Wasn't too hard to set up and had plenty of adjustment for intonation. I can't say for sure because I obviously changed strings at the same time, but even using the same kind of strings, the tone has changed a bit. Not worse or better, just a bit different. Notably the "chugs" sound a bit bassier/rounded and less aggressive at first. I have found that I can get some of that back by changing my attack slightly. Sustaine is either the same or just slightly better. Over all I am very happy with this upgrade and the quality and cost can't be beat.

Bad quality

It works fine, but it's a bit cheaply made. I found it right to get on the bridge studs that were included and had to use a bit more force than I'd have thought. Which makes me think they were off a bit with the milling by just a shred of a mm or so. Other than that, it's fine, probably worth the time to get a nice graphtech bridge or more high quality one.

Had to wallow out the bridge post mounting cavities on each side with a drill. Did not want to risk over boring it with a Dremel bit. Once it was bored to the prefect size, the set screws felt like they were going to break (didn't press my luck).Decently better than the original Epiphone tunomatic, but would recommend a higher prices item.Setting intonation is quite the pain considering you have to bend a string out of the way to really get to the button headed Allen lock screws. Also sliding the rollers up and down the string instead of using a screw was a bit annoying. Nonetheless, intonation was able to be set correctly.Made out of chinesium as expected.

I just replaced the stock TOM on an inexpensive IYV IJZ-300 TSB guitar that was decent enough, but didn't give me the tuning stability I require (see other review of the guitar). This bridge did. It was a drop-in fit for the TOM but the studs did have small bit of play in them even though they have what I believe are the exact same metric threads. Not enough play to make a difference as there was not much movement in the bridge and it certainly locked in place once the strings were in place and up to pitch. If I were ever to have an issue with the tiny amount of play, I'd probably give the stud threads a single wrap of Teflon plumber's tape in the middle to tighten it up. I may do that next string change, any way, who knows.It took about 45 minutes to dial in my intonation, but that's what you do when you have the adjustment options at your disposal. I did not immediately swap out all the individuals saddles and move them around as suggested in another review. I don't see saddle configuration as a "one size fits all" proposition. It's strictly guitar-dependent, and to get the most out of this bridge, you can't confine yourself to a pre-conceived saddle configuration. You'll eventually find it as you tweak your intonation and string height. I had no issue with string height, by the way. I pretty much started this saddle all the way down, flush with the guitar, then moved up from there. It now sits about an eighth of an inch above the guitar body with only one or two threads showing. I did give the rollers a tiny shot of WD40 to lube them up, then let it sit for a few hours before I installed. After installation, the guitar plays noticeably smoother and the acoustic sound of the semi-hollow body guitar is also noticeably better with more sustain and a sweeter overall tone (a subjective word, I know). I bend full steps and immediately noticed that this bridge offers MUCH more tuning stability than the stock TOM. The bridge feels much better under the hand as well.This is a "must" upgrade to any sub-$1000 guitar that comes stock with a cheap Tune-O-Matic bridge - just make sure you do the measurements to ensure it FITS!!!!! Fitment applies not only to the stud/string spacing and existing threads on the stud anchors currently installed on your guitar, but to the fretboard radius as well. It's reported in the Q&A above as a 12" radius. That comports with my guitar so I had no string height issue. Don't leave a negative review if YOU make the error and buy it when it's not the right fit for your specific guitar.For the paltry amount of money they ask for this bridge, it's a no-brainer. It arrived about four days after ordering (CA to MI) so kudos to Long Beach Music Store as well! Is it perfect? No. Is it manufactured to the tolerances of a high-end TonePros? No. But note that others have replaced a TonePRos with this bridge (if they are to be believed, which I have no reason not to). Excellent value for the money here - it certainly fills its niche admirably IMO.

Bought two of these and very happy with the quality. Installed these on an Epiphone Goth Les Paul and a Washburn MG-520. The fit and the existing hold in the Goth body was slightly tight but a couple minutes with a needle file fixed that. The Washburn fit perfect. Before installing, I used a marker where the strings and existing saddles met so that I would know roughly where to set the new bridge rollers. Loosened strings enough to remove tailpiece and swapped the bridge out. Reinstalled tailpiece, tuned guitar and set the bridge rollers to the marks on the strings. The intonation was only slightly off and was easy to set.

Solid bridge that fits a Gretsch Electromatic Jet G5230T perfectly. To install it, I loosened the strings and pulled them to the side, popped the stock bridge off, swapped the posts, and popped the new bridge on. I dropped it all the way down low, tightened the strings, and adjusted the action height up at the posts to get rid of most of the string buzzing (some buzz is ok with me in exchange for low action). (Don't tighten the front and back post allen screws until the height is where you want it.)Then I tightened the post screws so the bridge was evenly spaced with the pickup. (For aesthetics - I like it even. This took a few minutes to get it right. You can cant the bridge too in order to assist with intonation.) Once that was done, I set the individual string intonation. This process is a little cumbersome. Each saddle adjusts by loosening an allen screw, moving the saddle, then locking it back down with the allen screw. This took the longest because I had to loosen each string I was targeting, loosen and adjust the saddle, lock the saddle back down, then tune the string again and check it. I had to repeat as necessary until it was right for each string.Once it was done, the bridge works great. It's especially comfortable for palm muting. And it seems to assist with it's intended purpose: tuning stability.Quick tip - If your string is flat at the 12th fret, shorten the string by moving the saddle towards the pickup. If it's sharp at the 12th fret, lengthen the string by moving the saddle towards the bridge.

Le cayó perfecto a mi Gretsch 5230T, sin modificaciones.Con este nuevo puente y el cambio de la cejilla original por una TUSQ de Graphtech, la guitarra quedó mucho mejor.