Rugged Front Electric Power Steering Kit for Polaris Ranger 500/700/800/Diesel, Is A Bolt On System, Steers Easily When Navigating Rough Terrains (See Fitment Details in Description)

Works well for what I needed it for, the only issue I had which is no big deal to me. The steering stem the steering wheel is connected to, in my kit was probably 15 to 20 thousandths larger than the stock one. I just bored the bushings out. Other than that the steering as a whole is tight and works well.

I have a 2009 Ranger 700 XP full size. The gear shifter is on the dash to the right of the steering wheel and has just H-L-N-R, no park. The parking brake lever is on the dash, to the left side of the steering wheel. It has tilt steering as well.Why include all those details? I ordered another kit first. Everything else matched those details except the tilt steering. The item description (here on Amazon) did NOT include that that kit would not work with tilt steering. I had to learn that the hard way, while my Ranger was torn apart and unusable until I could get this kit in and installed. Quite frustrating. This kit went in easy. If your Ranger is different than how indescribed mine, your mileage may vary.Disassembly:Start by removing the instrument panel.Be careful with the wiring harnesses sonnected to the back. Next remove the battery compartment hood. The little one with the latch and hinges. Just remove the four screws towards the seat and leave the hinges on the hood. Less stuff to lose that way. Next is the big hood/upper dash. If your Ranger is red, or green, or blue, or whatever color, this is the part with all that color. I didn't have to remove my brush guard or bumper to pull the upper dash/hood. My Ranger has a roof and roof frame. I had to remove the bolts on the frame right above the hood and the ones in the middle above the seat. This allowed me to just pick up the frame with the plastic roof still attached to the roof frame, just enough to get the dash and hood piece out. The roof frame goes through holes on the driver and passenger side of the dash/hood. After the dash/hood piece is removed put a bolt or two back in the frame to hold it in place. Otherwise your roof will get bent out of shape and the frame will be in the way of getting in and out of the seat.Next remove the grill/headlight assembly plastic piece. Next remove the lower dash. The trim around both front fenders will be removed as part of all this also.Remove the steering wheel. An impact gun will make a huge difference getting the steering wheel nut loose. Now remove the tilt steering pneumatic cylinder. Remove the tilting part of the steering column. Remove the shifter lever. You can leave the parking brake, brake pedal, and gas pedal installed. Pull the starting batteries (mine has 2).The last big piece to remove is the battery box. You'll have to remove the screws that hold the fuse box to the batter box piece. You can just move the fuse box to the side and leave it more or less untouched. My battery box had a screw in the bottom of each battery compartment that were rusted horribly. I used a Dremel with a burr bit and cut the plastic battery box around these 2 screws. Way easier than dealing with the screws directly. You can get to then later with an angle grinder once the battery box is out.With the big plastic pieces out of the way you can get to your steering column. Remove the steering shaft from the top of the steering box and fish it out of the frame and firewall. Now you're done disassembling everything.Installing the kit:Connect the new steering shift (shorter one with spilined connections on each end. You may need to make the hole in the plastic firewall larger where the steering shaft comes through it. Line up the splines between the steering box and the new shaft. Install the power steering motor mounting braket between the shifter lever bracket and the steering column frame. Attached the motor to the bottom of the supplied bracket. The motor will be more or less in line with the bracket, pointing at the oassenger side front tire. Put the motor on the lower steering shaft. Attach the other new steering shaft to the top of the motor. It will have one male splined end. The male end will go through the steering wheel column. Make sure nothing is binding, and no wires are in the way. Tighten the clamp nuts on each u-joint yoke and the bolts holding the new motor to the mounting bracket.There is a white wire coming out of the motor. This is a switched control wire. In other words, the power steering motor will only work when the key is in the ignition and switched on. Use a test light to find a switched hot wire that isn't powered when the key is off. Connect the white wire to that switched power wire.Install your new control box to the top of the steering column frame welded to the steering frame. I turned the harness plugs towards the passenger side. Plug in your harnesses. Temporarily hook up one of the starting batteries and check everything out. Power steering when the key is on, none when the key is off.Finally, you can start reinstalling all the big plastic pieces, batteries, steering wheel, and so on. Go in the reverse order you removed then in. Every time you reinstall a big piece, look for pinched wires and proper function before going any further.Little details:Take pictures of your ATV before you remove each piece. Then you'll have a reference for when you're reassembling everything, and can do it in the reverse order. The little trim fasteners will come out and go back in easier with a little penetrating oil. So does everything else. Buy 3 cans of it from the dollar/parts store and spray everything that unscrews or slides apart. Go nuts.The motor fits behind the lower dash. You won't see it again unless. I can't hear when mine is running. But I can tell a huge difference in how much easier it steers now. Worth it. If I had found someone to install this kit for me for ~$500, I would have. That wasn't an option for me so I had to do it myself. 8-10 hours from start to finish. Not terrible.

Did not work

With alittle Ingenuity and patience it works flawless. I have a plow on the front that made it difficult to turn, i had to use 2 hands. Now after adding this system works with ease.Now going to add a steering ball.Best investment on my UTV.

So fair the steering works great I put it in my rail and it’s extremely easy to steer pretty easy install need to have fab work done to make fit