All the order came as posted

This is two (plus) sets of the safety sensors for a Atwood or Dometic water heater.There are 3 safety devices in the kit, with multiples of everything. For a full repair, you need a thermal fuse, a T-stat and an ECO. Let me explain each.See pic 2. This is where I divvied up the parts. On the right is one whole set. There is a brown wire, which I plugged onto the thermal cutoff (which is where it goes), an ECO and T-stat (the round metal discs with mounting tabs, and a new black foam cover (to try to keep out water). In the center of the pic is a whole second set. On the far left is two more of the thermal cutoff (the tube-like, fuse-like thing with the red ends.So, the thermal cutoff is designed to melt if the gas flame (if you are running in gas mode) does not burn in the burner tube, but gets sucked out and burns on the outside of the burn chamber. This melts and shuts off the unit in order to protect the rest of the unit. Sometimes, the brown wire melts too and requires replacement, This is why they gave it to you. When putting it in, be sure to bend the thermal cutoff to be in the same location and orientation as the old one. It is positioned specifically where the flame would hit it to make it melt. Failure to locate correctly means it won't do it's job.The ECO and T-Stat look identical. The only way to tell them apart is to look at the flat round face. The bottom line will say either 82C or 60C. This is the temp when they activate and open.So, the T-stat is the one that says 60C (which is 140F). It is the one on the left and has the red wires connected to it. The ECO is the one that says 82C (180 degrees) and is on the right, with brown wires connected to it.Be careful replacing these. You have to be sure they are not mixed up. If they are, the water heater will not function correctly. Also, be very careful when removing these. They are spring loaded and if you try to pull the wires off of them, they will make a loud snap as they pop back in place. But they may not be quite in the right spot and may short out. To correct remove the wires, you need to press on the black center with something (I use a stick or a chopstick) while you pull the wires off. Then, be sure the clear shield is under the metal tabs on the heater to retain them in the right place.Finally, see pic 3. It shows that you need to feed the terminals through the black foam sheet, sealing the sheet around the whole area to keep waterproof. But the terminals need to stick through the foam, so you can put the wires back on from the outside. The foam normally comes with these precut, but in this case, I had to cut the slots with a razor knife.Note: all items can be tested with a meter. The thermal cutoff, the T-stat and the ECO should all test OK with the meter set to continuity (expect ohm readings of .2 or less. If there is no continuity, that part is bad for sure.Overall, a great kit. It gives all the safety pieces and then some. You should get back up and running and have additional spares for later.

This fits into my water heater fine. Good replacement parts.

The parts arrived the next day and are easy to install. I always keep a extra pack in my camper to ensure we always have hot water.