SKS Germany B46 Bluemels Style Fender Set for 700c (28') Wheels, Matte Black (28-38mm Tire Width)

Die Montage dauerte unverhältnismäßig lange. Beschreibung nicht immer nachvollziehbar.Dass man die Metallstreben selbst entsprechend der Radgröße zurecht sägen muss, macht es besonders aufwendig.

Wurde für das Rose Backroad Al gekauft.Die Montage ist ein einziger Krampf und eine ordnungsgemäße Anbringung ist wegen teilweise mangelnder Gewinde am Fahrrad nicht möglich.Man bekommt es montiert und es sieht auch relativ schick aus. Allerdings musste teilweise improvisiert werden. Man könnte argumentieren es läge am Fahrrad und nicht am Blech. Allerdings kaufe ich ein Blech fürs Rad und nicht ein Rad fürs Blech. Kompatibilitätshinweise gibt es nicht.Außerdem ist zur Montage zwingend eine Eisensäge notwendig, da die Befestigungsstangen (für ein 28er Rad) zu lang sind.

"Nice looking fenders," said nobody, ever.You're more likely to hear, "Oh, so somebody doesn't steal it."I expected the difference between the B45 and B46 fenders was the "matte" finish of the B46 and the mud flaps you don't get with the B45s.Lets get "matte" out of the way first. These fenders are not matte or even eggshell. They are more like satin texture. Side by side with a piece of wood furniture finished with satin polyurethane, the fenders are glossier than the wood. They are about like a vacuum cleaner hose, or a crayon, or a piece of Hot Wheels track.Speaking of Hot Wheels track, that's what these fenders remind me of. A bent Hot Wheels track where the little cars run on the inside of the bend. In cross section, they are a shallow rectangular trough, not a rounded channel like a regular metal fender. This is not merely somewhat ugly and cheap-looking. It eats up space between the fender and the frame, putting the fender surface closer to the tire, leaving that much less room for the tire. Those rectangle corners are a design flaw.On the positive side, as cheap-looking and ugly as these B46s are, I don't feel too bad about cutting pieces out of them to make room around brakes and chain stays and seat stays and derailleur brackets. So I might not have to go down from 32 mm to 23 mm tires just to accommodate these ugly pieces of cheap-looking plastic.I'll give it a go and chalk it all up to experience (I bought directly from SKS, and they don't have a free returns/free shipping policy if you're not happy.)I won't want these on my bike except when it is rainy or muddy, so I will probably wear them out early installing and uninstalling them all the time. Eventually, I will be rid of them. Sooner rather than later is my hope.Seriously, for $20 more, I could have had a classy pair of $95 metal fenders from Velo Orange that I would be happy to ride with year round.I am so happy with my clip-on SKS MTB fenders (Shockboard up front, Dashblade aft), I assumed SKS made a decent product for road and gravel. Maybe the regular Blumels B45 fenders are nicer.Update: Into the installation process a little. I've cut out holes and slots in the rear fender to accommodate my front derailleur. The fender itself is wide enough that the derailleur cage banged into it in low gear and the cable attachment point rocked into it in high gear. Also, the narrowest pinch point between my rear tire and my fenderless bike was at the front derailleur clamp band. I didn't want that to be any narrower. So I cut a slot all the way across the fender for the clamp band and turned it into an L-shaped slot to accommodate the front derailleur cage. I drilled an extra hold outside the L-shaped slot so the front derailleur cable attachment point can move freely.Notes on drilling, machining, and finishing: Drilling isn't easy. A split point twist drill bit sits and spins on the slick polymer surface. Once it catches in the aluminum layer, it drives through like a screw without finishing the round hole. I found it easiest to drill a pilot hole with something like a 1/8" or 3/16" bit for accurate location and then drill through that with a 3/8" bit. The holes end up ragged, with huge burrs and strips of aluminum sticking out. Don't cut yourself.The 3/8" holes can be connected by sawing with a fine-toothed coping saw blade. Sawing is very easy. Be careful. It's easy enough that you can cut too far if you didn't realize how fast a saw blade cuts this material.Finishing the round holes and the slot corners is easily done with a double cut round file. If you twist that file in the hole and it seems to screw its way into the hole, twist it in the opposite direction while pushing in, and you will get a gentle, accurate hole-rounding effect. The saw cuts can be straightened with a flat file.Surface scratches can be removed with sandpaper or steel wool, and you can approximate the factory "matte" finish with 0000 steel wool. Be careful about that, though. Once you start in with the 0000, you might be committing yourself to going over the entire fender with 0000, because it's a little bit different. You can make it look nice and have everything match, but this is serious mucho work.I've bought River City Bicycles' Reacharound brackets to bypass the rim brakes. Be here in a couple of days. See how it goes.

Die Schutzbleche haben einen riesigen Umfang und schützen so beinahe gegen jegliches Spritzwasser. Das übertrifft jegliches Steckschutzblech um Längen.Die Montage ist nicht ganz so trivial. Deshalb etwas Abzug.

Artikel ist super aber hat leider nicht bei meinem Bike gepasst. Rücksendung und Erstattung war absolut unkompliziert

Installation seemed fussy until I remembered I have a set of bolt cutters. Hack-sawing the stays to length after test fitting would have been a PIA.

Product had a bag of nuts and bolt fittings missing therefore unable to fit to bicycle. Refund offered