Time-Sert M14x1.5 Oil pan Thread Repair kit

This Timesert product is amazing. A quick lube shop stripped my niece’s drain plug bolt. To make matters worse they put in a temporary plug and didn’t tell her. The next time she brought it to a different quick lube shop, they declined to change the oil for fear of liability because they were not responsible for the temporary plug. When used correctly this product made the drain plug hole better than new. Instead of the original aluminum threads, there are now steel threads. She can once again use an OEM washer and drain plug. The seller was great as well. At first I was unsure about which Timesert kit to purchase. The gentleman that assisted me was very knowledgeable and assured me that I had the correct kit for the car that I was working on. This is more pricy than other options, for a drain plug repair, but if you want to do it right the first time and you want a permanent fix, this is the way to go. Just make sure that you follow the directions, take your time and make sure that all the bits are going in straight.

The Time-Sert kit saved me A LOT of money. The cost of an aftermarket oil pan was $680.00 and then there would have been the time and hassle of installing it. In less than 10 minutes I had threads in my existing oil pan that were as good as new. I recommend watching a few Youtube videos on how it works before you perform the work. Take your time and you will have the same good results that I did. Good luck!

I used this to repair stripped oil pan threads on a 2003 Land Rover Discovery 2.The first thing you should know is that the inserts are the 12.7mm depth type (part #14155), this is not stated in the item description. There are different depth inserts, be sure you are ordering the correct kit for your application or order the correct inserts separately. I was fortunate that this worked for my needs as I did not pay attention to the insert depth before I ordered.The bits used to drill, counterbore, and tap have different sizes, check to be sure you have the appropriate socket adapters or tools before you start.I repaired my oil pan while installed in my truck, removal and replacement would have been between four and six hours; overall the expense of the kit is a good value compared to the time investment and possibility that something could break or go wrong by removing the entire oil pan and cross-member.The drill bit drive square is 11mm, if you want to use a drill you'll need one with a large chuck, likely 1/2". I used a 1/2" 12 point socket on a 3/8" ratchet. You MUST keep the bit square to the surface when drilling which is very difficult when drilling using a ratchet as you cannot place pressure over the center bore of the bit. This kit does not provide a drill bit guide (it REALLY should), but you can use the tap guide which is provided, though it's slightly larger (about 1.5mm) than the drill bit. I used the tap guide while drilling to be as close to square as possible. The bit is sharp and cut the hole quickly. Clean out chips and flakes.Next step was to counterbore the newly drilled hole (the counterbore drive square is 9mm), this was not easy with a ratchet as I could not get enough pressure to create a clean cut that would continue to the depth of the tool. I had to jack up the truck and use a large speed adjustable drill with a 1/2" chuck to do the job. The drill made this a piece of cake and quickly cut a groove into the hole to seat the insert. Clean the chips and flakes.Next step, tap the new threads (the tap drive square is 9mm). I used a large ratcheting die tool for taps for this job as well as the included tap guide. Keeping the guide square to the surface I easily cut the new threads. Be sure that you look at the tap guide from all angles to ensure it's seated squarely all the way around the hole all the while that you are tapping the threads. You absolutely do not want to tap your threads at an angle to the surface. Clean the chips and flakes. I cut a bit of hanger wire and made a 90 degree bend at on end of the wire to put up into the new bolt hole to catch any debris inside the pan and pull it down, then threaded a blue paper shop towel up and made a few turns to fully clean the hole and threads.The last step is to install the insert (the insert tool drive square is 8mm). Oil the insert tool as instructed before proceeding. You can either screw the insert into the hole with your fingers, or you can thread it partially onto the tool and then screw into the hole; either method will work, but if threading onto the tool only go 3/4 onto the tool. Proceed to turn the tool into the insert in the hole, you may feel a bit of resistance and then it should free up. This is the tool rolling out the bottom threads of the insert to lock it in place. Turn a few more times to ensure the tool is turning freely, then back it out. I was a little concerned that the insert was not flush to the surface, but after checking the Time-Sert site I found that this is normal.Install your drain plug with a new copper washer, pour your old oil back into the engine, let this sit for about 10 minutes to make sure the repair is square and does not leak (DO NOT START THE ENGINE).Next, remove the drain plug and allow it to drain back into your drain pan, this should wash out any remaining debris from the repair. Let the oil drain, then install and tighten your plug again using the new copper washer, and fill with fresh oil.Start the engine and then check for leaks for the next few days.Overall this was a fairly simple repair, I don't think it would have gone so well if I did not have a drill with a 1/2" chuck which most people are not going to have; some type of socket adapter on a 1/4" chuck may be the answer. I'm very happy with the repair and expect that it should hold up well, if I have any issues I will update this review.I gave four stars only because of the difficulty with the counterbore tool, and mainly due to not supplying a bit guide to ensure the new hole is square to the surface given the cost of the kit.

I purchased this kit to repair a torqued out sump plug on a 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser. The instructions that came with it are a bit sparse, but it is not a difficult job to do, Youtube has a couple of videos of people using the kit if you're at all unsure. You will need a tap socket if you do not have a 12 point socket set, a Lisle 70900 (1/2" drive) or similar. The final driver that sets the new steel thread in place has a smaller square shank than the other three tools, but I was able to use an open ended wrench, so no problem. The most important detail is that it worked perfectly, and I have no more oil leak!