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This dual-Voltage, single-phase Paddle Switch is rated for 110-Volt, 2 Horsepower motors up to 35-Amp and 220-Volt, 3 Horsepower motors up to 20-Amp. The large paddle makes this switch ideal for emergency shut offs. Fits basic electrical boxes.
From the Manufacturer
This dual voltage, single-phase Paddle Switch is rated for 110 volt, 2 Horsepower motors up to 35 amps and 220 volt, 3 Horsepower motors up to 20 amps. The large paddle makes this switch ideal for emergency shut offs. Fits basic electrical boxes.
Dave
Reviewed in the United States on July 4, 2024
I owne a jet jointer (6 inches) and the switch failed disabling my machine. I turned to Jet to see if I could order a replacement switch. Backordered for months. So I checked out the guts of the dead switch and it turns out the same switch is used in this device as was used on my original jet jointer. Received the switch in two days, switched it out (wiring is very straightforward), and am back in business. Hope this is helpful for someone.
Stephen Schilling
Reviewed in the United States on April 27, 2024
I used this switch to replace a dead switch on my Grizzly table saw. Easy swap out, worked perfectly, months later...still working perfectly. I would recommend this switch for use for table saw, router table replacement. The large OFF paddle works quickier then original switch.
Mr Fixalot
Reviewed in Mexico on June 9, 2022
Su reacción es instantánea para apagar flujo eléctrico. El ancho del interruptor es muy conveniente sin tener que mirar donde se activa.
G.
Reviewed in Australia on July 12, 2021
The action of the switches requires a lot of force to engage the ON and OFF buttons. The paddle switch is helpful to activate the OFF button (it is easier to use). THE BIGGEST ISSUE is that there is no cover panel or mounting panel making this (1) dangerous to users if wiring is not appropriately protected, and (2) the lack of a mounting plate creates more complications for the buyer. I got my unit to work HOWEVER I had to source and buy extra parts which was a difficult activity for this unit. Buyer beware!
Chris
Reviewed in Canada on September 9, 2020
Used on my Tablesaw. The switch is large, so I bought a plastic back-box that looked like it would accommodate the switch; it does, BUT the front plate of the switch does not have standard holes to screw into a box. It has bolts that go through the plastic front and through a metal strap of the switch mechanism. The spacing of these screws is also a bit too much for a standard box.I had to remove the bolts/nuts, lengthen the bolt holes a bit, with a Dremel grinding rod, then use the bolts without the nuts to screw right through into the back-box. The plastic front, with paddle, is loose from the switch mechanism throughout this mounting process until the screws are tight.Also, the switch is designed for ring terminals, so you must crimp ring terminals to your wires. Once this is done and the parts assembled into the box, it works fine. Much better than my old, old light switch in a metal box on the side of the table stand. I drilled though the table frame to mount the box and switch flush with the front of my saw table leg-frame. I t is now easy to reach for on or off and I can knock it off with my knee while holding the wood steady after a cut.Definitely a good improvement over a simple old light switch.While the front plate and switch-block were apart, I also put a thin smear of thick grease on the front of the large buttons of the switch-block, to reduce friction between those and the front plate buttons.Works much more smoothly now.
Warren
Reviewed in Canada on March 23, 2019
As many have said, the installation instructions are skimpy but at least show you where the load and line are. Solid switch and works well once put together. A few recommendations when assembling a box to house the switch:1. Box should be at least 2 1/8" deep. Do not use PVC if you want to build this solid and mount to a stationary tool.2. Oddly enough, use a 4" x 4" x 2 1/8"d box with a riser plate. and assemble the switch to the riser plate.3. The provided screws are larger than a normal boxes plate holes. Either ream out and re-thread, or get new screws4. Use 2 strain relief connectors for the wires going in/out of the box.5. Size your power tool, and select wire size no less than 14ga, but no larger than 12ga (recommended)5a: A good 12/3 outdoor extension cord, like what is sold by Amazon basics is a cheap way to get up to 30' of wire on this switch (no more than 30')6. Ensure you have a good crimp on your connectors. Do a pull testFinal thoughts: If you are replacing a switch on an existing tool, this is a good, cost effective safety switch. If you are going to build an entire assembly to save on costs, plan it out and compare to a pre-made. Only build if you need the cord length (my build was about $75 CDN).
CARPINTERIA OKUMEX
Reviewed in Mexico on February 16, 2018
la use en mi sierra de banco y hasta ahorita no ha fallado, buena opcion para proyectos caseros o semi industriales
Suitcase_2
Reviewed in the United States on March 26, 2016
I have only just installed this switch but so far I love it. I am using this switch (220v version) to switch on both my miter saw and dust collection vacuum at the same time with each unit being powered by a different electrical circuit due to the amount of current used by each unit (13amp for each unit). Some reviewers indicated that the switch would not fit all electrical boxes. A plastic deep box fits this switch with plenty of room to spare. I used 12 gage wire and had on problems fitting everything in the box. At least one reviewer said the switch body was shifted to one side. My switch body is in the center so no problem there. I also had no problems attaching the 12 gage wire to the switch contacts. One viewer said that the mounting screws had to be changed from metric to US. The holes in a plastic electrical box do not have threads. The threads in a plastic box are made by the screw when installed, so no problem there. I will update this review after the switch has been used for some time.After buying the switch above in March, I also ordered one for my router table. Again to switch on the router and vacuum at the same time using two different circuits. Again, the switch works extremely well. You can go to Rockler and order the same switch with a box made for it. The price was $34.99 when I bought this switch but is now reduced to $24.99 or you can install the switch in a large plastic box as I suggested above.
Sir-Fix-A-Lot
Reviewed in the United States on October 21, 2015
I use these all the time. Very sturdy, The "on" switch takes some effort to press, which is good for no accidental operation of equipment. I have not broken the stop paddle yet. Behind the paddle is a regular stop button in red, so not a disaster if it breaks. The wiring is simple (use a meter to figure out continuity). You need a deep box (~2 1/8 min) and the screws are metric, so you need to swap out for SAE to fit the threads of the typical stamped steel boxes. Due to clearance between the bezel and the switch body, you may have to add a small spacer or stack of small washers to keep from crushing the bezel against the switch body in case you over tighten the screws. Depending on the machines existing box, I generally have to spend an hour tweaking this or that, but they always look and work great. Imported, but good quality.
C & B
Reviewed in the United States on October 3, 2014
Update 2 - Jan 2017: I bought and installed the same switch despite the reliability issues because I couldn't find a better one. After I installed the new one, I opened the old one and looked inside. The photo is the inside of the back cover. You can see the lower 2 terminals are completely burned. I wired the switch 120V and these were the hot terminals. After this, I'm changing the rating again to 4 stars because even though it failed at a load far under 35 amps (claimed ampacity), the box was at least heavy duty and secure enough not to burn. Not even a hint of a sniff of smoke outside the box. So even though it's going to burn at underrated loads, at least it will burn safely.Another thing I noticed while reading reviews was that some people claimed the installation screw holes (not terminal holes) were in the wrong position and they had to drill new holes. This is not true. They are positioned for a finish plate (same as a plastic decora switch plate). The switch needs to be installed in a surface mounted box with a steel finish face plate, which will provide grounding to the box (you did ground the box, didn't you?) and the holes are lined up to fit. I grounded by wire the box and attached the box directly to the steel chassis of my table saw. 100% grounding - chassis, box, switch...Update 1 - Jan 2017: switch died after about 18 months. Changing review to 3 stars. Big knock for reliability. There are no signs of overload on the outside of the switch (burn marks, smell). Nice functionality but poor reliability.Original review:This is a great switch. My 20+ year old delta tablesaw switch was upgraded with this. It works great. The buttons are a little hard to push but I think they'll ease up over time.Pros: works great. Big stop paddle. Can kill it with your knee or whatever may be handy. Nice and safe.Cons (not worth detracting from 5 stars):No documentation. Not that big of a deal since the switch itself is marked with line/load sides. However, there are a couple of other screws in the back that may or may not be ground terminals. I wasn't sure so I left the switch itself ungrounded.The terminal blocks are small. I had a few ring terminals that fit but not enough and ended up recycling 1 from a different wire. It would have been better if the terminals were large enough to wrap 12 awg stranded around. Not really possible. Those screws are small. You need removal rings to make it work properly.It is deeper than a standard 2 gang box. I used a 3/4" extension cover (the kind for double layer drywall) and it fit fine in the box.I hung the box under the tablesaw fence rail in the same location as the original switch. The electric box didn't fit so I used a few inches of steel angle I had laying around and bolted everything together. Bonus! Now the chassis and motor are grounded together. Safety first!
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