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72mm Compatible with honda TRX250 Cylinder Piston Gasket Top End Kit 1997-2019
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Replace part number
- 12100-HN6-000; 12100-HM8-000
- 13101-HM8-A40; 13011-HM8-003
- 13111-425-000; 12251-HN6-000
- 94601-15000
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Seal-tight
- Great sealing performance, completely meets the application requirement
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Efficiently
- Provide powerful driving force for vehicles, high operation efficiency
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long usage life
- Wear resistance and high strength, practical and economical, long usage life
Fit for honda TRX250 Cylinder Piston
Enhancing Bike Reliability and Lifespan with Efficient Performance
- Manufactured performance materials to increase durability and provide greater reliability, great fit for your bike, and ensure to prolong the lifespan, with efficient performance, no longer burning oil
Fit for honda TRX250 Cylinder Piston
Exceptional Durability and Heat Resistance for Enhanced Engine Performance
- Piston is made of strong aluminum, Piston rings are semi-nitrided, with excellent wear resistance, fatigue resistance, corrosion resistance and high temperature resistance
Fit for honda TRX250 Cylinder Piston
Package included
- 1 x Cylinder; 1 x Piston
- 1 x Piston Pin; 2X Circlips
- 5X Piston Rings
- 1 x Sparkplug
woodsow
Reviewed in the United States on February 10, 2025
Do not buy this kit!I should have read the reviews but I didn't. It won't fit. Crank hits the sleeve. Just don't buy it .
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on June 15, 2024
Poor quality. The outside diameter of the cylinder wall was 50 thousandths bigger than the opening on the lower case. The head gasket needed to be modified to accommodate the push rods. Don't waste your time and money.
SCS
Reviewed in the United States on January 10, 2024
Because this cylinder is bored over so far, fitment into the block is an issue. There are the notches and impurities from the mold in your casing, you will have to shave them down with a bur bit, and a shop rag. Then be sure to drain your oil, then flush your bottom end with diesel while your cylinder is off and the drain plug is removed. (Rinse and repeat till you are sure all debris is removed). Then you will need to find a way to get the cylinder to slide all the way down because it interferes and makes connection with the weights on the crank. Still trying to figure out a solution to this. I’m thinking I may find some form of spacer between the cylinder and block, paired with a longer rod, but not sure if that would fit or even be worth the time and money. If I figure out a easy solution, I will edit the review, if I don’t edit I decided to return and try using as slightly smaller bore kit. Either way, if you decide to do it, I highly recommend you seek the help of an experienced mechanic and a machinist.
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