Buen producto de calidad

This is very sturdy. It helped site in a lot of rifles. The function is perfect. Very easy to use.

Usato con frequenza al tiro a segno , prodotto caro ma di ottima qualità.

Ideal zum Einschießen! Würde es trotzdem Preis noch mal kaufen!

組立て、簡単10分程で出来ました。いろいろ細かく設定が出来るみたい。早く使ってみたい。

C’est du costaud !! C’est lourd, c’est solide, c’est stable. C’est ce qu’il faut pour régler sa lunette de manière optimale. C’est pas donné mais c’est qualitatif.

I am a high volume shooter for pistols and rifles. I have my own backyard range, as well as belong to a gun club. Zeroing a rifle can be a challenging evolution when shooting alone, which is what I have done for the past 2 years.I typically use a Lead Sled for two purposes: 1) Check groups from a rifle 2) Zero my scope.This is a very stable system for either purpose. It takes out the human factor of dealing with recoil, though my largest rifle calibers are limited to 6.5 Creedmoor and 308 WInchester. I also shoot 300 AAC/Blackout, 5.56 mm NATO, 7 mm-08, 22 LR, 22 WMR. With the adjustable foreward end, it is also adaptable to zeroing a pistol or revolver.The finish is powder-coated which is durable. Both are stable and solid in construction. The plastic knobs are very easy to turn, and cam-levers allow for variable adjustability for any length rifle. The rear part of the rest allows for significant recoil mitigation.The forward rest allows for elevation and windage adjustments. The rear part of the rest is adjustable for elevation in micro adjustments. These type of small adjustments are not possible on the Lead Sled 2.The center rail is divided which allows for full sized magazines for AR or AK rifles. On my Lead Sled 2, this is not possible, necessitating a 5 round magazine.For the calibers that I use, I find it unnecessary to use weighted bags under either Lead Sled. If I were to test a 338 Lapua Magnum or other heavy recoiling rifle, I'd use a weight.How I zero my rifles:For a bolt action rifle, I make sure the rifle is unloaded and I have a safe backstop. I remove the bolt and center the barrel onto an intermediate length target. I do this at initially 25 yards with a target stapled onto a standard size of cardboard. I center my barrel onto the target, then I adjust the reticle of the scope onto the target, without moving the firearm. This is easily facilitated on a Lead Sled. After I fire one round, I look to see the point of impact. Usually, I'm on paper; therefore, I move my reticle to the point of impact without moving the scope or rifle. The second shot is usually centered accordingly. Afterwards, I will zero the rifle and scope at either 50 yards or 100 yards depending upon what type of rifle I am sighting.If the rifle is not a bolt action rifle, and I cannot peer through the bore of the back of the barrel, I substitute a Laser Bore Sighting tool. I personally find a little more consistency with a caliber specific cartridge but a generalized , adjustable laser boresighter will achieve the shooter a point of impact onto paper.If you are on the fence between the two, I say get the DFT2: Buy Once, Cry Once. The difference in weight and portability are really not that different to go smaller. As you can see, I ended up with both anyways.Keeping a shooting system stable from a platform like this is what saves time, ammunition and money.

I got this in early last week, put it together and took it to the range the next day. I timed myself for assembly - 43 minutes including unwrapping the parts. And I lost about 5 minutes looking for the screw that holds the front cradle down on the ram. Obviously the #!!@# who packaged this left it out but fortunately I have 6 mm screws in my shop to finish the job. So as I prepared to check to make sure my screw was the right size and length, I realized the "missing" screw was already threaded into the ram. Take it out, put on the cradle and screw it back down. My sincere apologies to the fine person who packed this. All the parts were there. Assemble was easy. Run the ram all the way to the top to fasten the top part of the front cradle to give yourself room to work. Getting those screws started can be a little tricky, Use one of the included hex wrenches or a screw driver to hold the clamp down till you get the screws threaded and it's easy enough. I turned the rest over on it's side when finishing up this step.How does it work? Very well. In fact I had already used another one at the range a few weeks back while helping someone sight in his rifle. I guess that really pushed me into going ahead and buying one. The Lead Sled it fairly heavy and I was checking the sight in of an old (and unfortunately now obsolete) .225 Winchester at 200 and 300 yards, It's a low recoiling rifle and I didn't use additional weights and probably won't for heavier rifles either. I found the adjustments easy and fine with no backlash. I did generally have to reset it somewhat between shots but I've never used a bench rest that didn't require some readjustment between shots. It was very easy to precisely set the crosshairs on the target and the crosshairs stayed in place as I got into final shooting position. After a bit of tweaking the sight in at 200 yds I was able to hit a 4 inch gong at 300 meters (330 yds) with my last two shots so it will hold the rife steady. I did not have any wobble in the front cradle even when elevated. The Caldwell site addresses this saying they have corrected that problem with earlier ones. When I first assembled it I did notice that I had to gently push the ram down when near the bottom but when I had the weight of a rifle in it, I did not have that problem. I did lubricate it and had no problems at all when I took it to the range even without a rife in it, There is a thick recoil absorbing pad in the rear cradle and that effectively makes for a much longer length of pull and I had trouble getting my eye close enough to get a full image in this scope. That pad is not removable.And last I put my rifle in it to clean it. The way it's made, all my rifles are secure in it, not true in other rests I have/had. That's one of the reasons I bought it - not a lot more expensive than some of the plastic vises on the market. I didn't bother with the rubber hold down strap. I expect most will find it of little use. All my rifles, including varmint rifles with broad, flat forends, set below the top of the front cradle so the strap would be above the rifle. I hold the rifle down with my left hand with any bench rest.Yeah it's made in China but it is all steel and is well made. The ability to adjust the distance between the front and back cradles is another reason I bought it.