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Your cart is empty.Product Description
Feature :
- Voltage Measuring Range : DC 4.5-100V
- Voltage Resolution : 0.01V under 10V 0.1V between 10V and 100V
- Current Measuring Range : 0.0-50.0A (If the current is higher than 20A, a shunt is required, or the meter will burn)
- Current Resolution : 0.1A
- Display : 0.39"" LED display
- Measuring Rate : ≥500mS/time
50A/75mV Shunt
The shunt should be connected when wiring, otherwise the meter will be burnt.
Extreme Working Condition :
- Working Temperature : -10℃～+65℃
- Working Humidity : 10～80% ( No Condensation)
- Working Air Pressure : 80～106kPa
Connecting Method :
- COM: Common terminal of power supply negative pole
- V+ : Positive pole of tested voltage, positive pole input terminal of power supply A+ : Positive pole input terminal of tested current
( This meter adopts common-ground design that earth wire of measuring terminal is interlinked with earth wire of power supply, so A+ can only be connected between the tested device negative pole and power supply negative pole. The meter will burn if connected wrong.)
Package included :
- 1 X 0.39 inch digital voltmeter ammeter
- 1 X 50A/75mV shunt
Note : If the meter is used as voltmeter, it is suggested that the yellow wire and black wire are connected together.
Laura A. Smoot
Reviewed in the United States on April 10, 2023
It could use a bit better instructions, so make sure you hook it up correctly. But they it works perfectly.
Martin Batten
Reviewed in the United States on June 21, 2022
These are nice modules. My only negative is mine do not seem to read the first 0.2Amp, but are good after that. I guess as they have an FSD of 50A it’s less than 0.5% error….I wish they came in ‘Round’, then I could simply drill a hole in the front cover, not have to carve a rectangular cut-out.They are bright, permanently on, easy to read from 5ft away.UPDATE: I built control panel, with a car radio, solar panel and lots of other switch functions. I had one of these meters each side of the radio, about 4 inches away. One for solar V/I and one for battery V/I. I could not figure out why the radio had no sensitivity, couldn't even pick up half the stations my cheap boom box could, even with a good antenna. I eventually probed around and found these little gizmos emit a lot of RF noise. So much it was bleeding into the radio receiver. They seem to have no shielding and are great transmitters. Once I disabled them, the radio could pick up double the number of radio stations. So now I need to replace them.... :(
Jason Somers
Reviewed in the United States on May 18, 2021
Not mentioned in the description AT ALL is the fact that this requires a separate DC power supply to power the unit on. Also - there are no pins for the power inputs - just holes. RETURNINGPass on this - get one that costs the same and has the cables pre-soldered on the board.
Connie Henriks
Reviewed in the United States on April 5, 2021
I bought one meter. Then I liked it so much I bought another. I wired each according to instructions and both worked as expected. Volts and current readings are the same as my Fluke, so I'm good with that. I use these in conjunction with an auxiliary battery system I devised for my minivan. One meter, mounted on the dashboard, tells me how charging the auxiliary battery off the alternator is going, as I watch the charge current go to zero. The other meter, afixed to a cord, show the voltage and current when I load the auxiliary battery with my disability lifts. Charging the auxiliary battery means that the latter meter could experience about 4 amps reverse current for which the meter reads zero; the smoke test shows no harm done. The Meter readings I use range from 12 to 15 volts and 0 to 15 amperes.
Candlewood
Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2021
The meter is fine, looks good, bright and voltage is accurate.The Amperage side of things are difficult, the "50 AMP" shunt supplied has about 10/32 size screws to attach 50 amps too. To the best of my knowldge, there is NO PLACE to get a 2AWG wire size (typical battery cable) that once crimped or soldered onto the #2 AWG wire, has a "10/32" size round or fork connector to make the connector actually attach to both ends of the 10/32 size screws on each end of the shunt.Franlky I was dissapointed in the shunt, it was acurately pictured, I didnt notice that the shunt did NOT have LARGE terminals to handle the #2 AWG BATTERY CABLE!I figured that I could have this together in minutes, NO, in trying to "clip lead" the shunt between battery and load, it never did work. I was able to take shunt out of the circuit and hook directly to meter to see if it would work on 5 amps or less, it did!!
jcoleman
Reviewed in the United States on September 19, 2020
Easy to install on power supply in ham shack. Checked accuracy with fluke and it was spot on.
Steven Weinrich
Reviewed in the United States on September 18, 2020
I ordered this to monitor the voltage output and amperage used from a 12V Meanwell LRS-350-12 powersupply. It's feeding 12V RGB pixels (WS2811), and the current draw depends on the brightness and the colors being displayed at the time.This was a great choice! Easy to hook up and even easier to use. The accuracy was better than I expected, given the price. I was impressed with the build quality and crispness of the display.Good packaging and fast shipping helps round this out to a solid purchase that met my needs and exceeded my expectations.
Wiley Traylor
Reviewed in the United States on October 12, 2020
I finally got this volt/amp meter to work for me, but along the way I ran into several issues that anyone who buys this should consider.1.) The first problem I had was the wire I used from the shunt to the meter. I recommissioned a 6' piece of grey telephone wire but it didn't work. I discovered the size of the wire was so small it had .5 ohm resistance, which at 75 millivolts of signal from the shunt is quite a lot of resistance. Use at least a 20-22 gauge wire from the shunt to the meter.2.) For some reason, the shiny chrome coating of the shunt terminals also had resistance.. When I screwed the wires from the meter to the shunt, the current reading dropped quite a bit. I eventually had to solder the common wire from the meter directly to the ground terminal on my power supply. (See photo)3.) My third error was buying the 100 amp version. Since my power supply only delivers about 22 amps, I should have purchased a smaller amp version. The result of using the 50 amp shunt is the meter is very inaccurate when the load is only a few amps. For example, my radio draws 22 amps at full power, but only 0.6 amps when receiving. When receiving, the meter displays 00.0 amps, but at 50% power, I was able to calibrate it to 11 amps.4.) This is not really an issue, but a warning that the message on the label to use an isolated power supply should be heeded. The shunt is in the negative leg of the power supply. The negative lead of my radio is connected to the radio's chassis ground. My antenna tuner also has its negative lead connected to its chassis ground. If the radio is connected to the shunt, and the tuner is connected to the power supply ground, the current reading will be off because of the ground loop current flowing through the shield of the coax connecting the 2 devices.Since I wanted to measure the current of the radio and nothing else, I opted to power the tuner from a different supply. The other option would be to connect the ground of the tuner to the shunt.5.) Opening the case of the meter to get to the calibration potentiometer was also challenging. One of the tabs has a small plastic piece behind it that doesn't allow the tab to detent.All in all, the meter appears to be well made and quite the bargain for the small price .What I will probably do in the near future, is try to locate a 25 amp shunt with 75 millivolt output. That should put the meter in a more linear range. (it may be possible to elongate the calibration slit in the shunt to increase its internal resistance, thus providing 75 millivolt at 25 amps. I'll pose that question on the page.)
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