Frigidaire Gallery FGHS2334KW1. Was not defrosting so the temp could not get low enough any more. This fixed it! Very simple to install from front of unit. Came with everything needed (except crimping tool). 5 min job and fixed! Like that it is a genuine part from Frigidaire too. Watched lots of YouTube vids and this part seems to be the issue with most temp problems with freezers/fridge, and for $20.... Worth the try and for myself paid off well!

This defrost thermostat was relatively easy to install once I was able to access the part.Our refrigerator was not maintaining the correct temperature, even though our freezer was staying cold. We have the Electrolux Ikon french door refrigerator, model E23BC78IPS0.First I pulled the refrigerator out of the cabinet and carefully removed the back panel to take a look. The condenser coils were free of dirt and dust. The condenser fan was running. In addition, the compressor was vibrating and warm to the touch. I assumed the start relay switch was ok since the compressor was on.Since everything seemed to be working well in the back, I decided to take a look at the evaporator coils and evaporator fan in the freezer. The parts are located at the back of the freezer, so I had to take out all of the food. I used the following hand tools to access the compartments:- phillips head screwdriver (to remove panels)- 1/4” nut driver (to remove panels)- 3/8” nut driver (to remove the bottom freezer door which allows better access to the parts)I found the evaporator coils frozen over (see photo) and the defrost thermostat looked busted (see photo). In addition, the evaporator fan wasn’t running so at first I thought that might be broken as well. But, the fan turned on after I pushed the button that senses if the door is closed, so that wasn’t the problem.At this point, I ordered the new defrost thermostat and unplugged the refrigerator and let it defrost overnight. Once the freezer was defrosted, I cut the two wires about an inch from the defrost thermostat. I unclipped the defrost thermostat and removed it. One of the wires had a white molex on its other end which connected to the defrost heater (on the right side of the freezer). I pushed the molex tab to disconnect it. The other wire had a pink Gardner Bender fully insulated disconnect. This male/female pair does disconnect, but with a little effort and care not to pull the wires out. Once disconnected, I stripped 1/4” from the wire end of each of these wires, keeping the connectors to be reused with the new defrost thermostat.Note that I didn’t check the defrost thermostat for continuity before removing it because it was obviously physically ruptured. But, if you weren’t sure if it was bad, you could check it for continuity first. You would need to do that before defrosting the freezer or you would need access to a freezer to put it in to test it as it needs to be at 25 F in order for it to activate (47-22 as indicated on the part). Ice water does not work for testing as it is not cold enough.While I was waiting for the new defrost thermostat to arrive, I also checked the defrost heater (attached to the defrost thermostat at the molex end) and the thermistor (located on the left of the freezer behind a small plastic cover) for continuity. Both were fine, but I am glad I checked them because I didn’t want to go through taking everything apart again if the defrost thermostat wasn’t the only problem.To install the new defrost thermostat, I needed the following:- wire cutter/stripper- 2 wing nut wire connectors- silicone sealantThe new defrost thermostat wires need to be spliced to the wire with the molex and the wire with the GB disconnect. To do this, I put one of the wires from the new defrost thermostat and the wire with the molex into a wing nut wire connector and twisted it to connect. I put the other wire from the new defrost thermostat and the wire with the GB disconnect into a wing nut wire connector and twisted it to connect. I put just enough silicone sealant into the wing nuts to cover the wires to protect them against moisture from the freezer. I had to wait 30 minutes for the silicone sealant to set.I installed the new part by attaching the GB disconnect side first, then clicking the molex into place on the other side. Finally, I clipped the default thermostat into place. I’ve added a photo of the new default thermostat installed.I ended up deciding to do this myself because the first refrigerator repair person that we contacted came over and said that he didn’t know what was wrong and couldn’t help us and the second repair person that we contacted said he wouldn’t be able to come by for 3-4 days.I hope this helps!

replaced this part hoping it would solve my freezer fluctuating in temperature. My refrigerator temperature is stable only the freezer gets warm and back to cold, varies from 0 to 22 degrees daily. This part did not fix it. It is genuine Frigidaire so no complaint there. Install/replacement was easy.Only on minor complaint is the shrink wrap that comes with this part is a little large. I used a smaller diameter heat shrink to finish of the install.

My fridge would work for about 6 hours then would not get cold, even though it sounded like the compressor and everything was working. I unplugged it for a day, got cold for another 6 hours, then everything melted again. I took a chance that it was this thermostat and replaced it with the one here from Amazon. Took me 30 minutes to install it and voila!! Everything is now perfect. The only thing I didn't like was the shrink tubing that came with this part. I used my own and chucked the ones that came with it in the garbage. Still... it is definitely a 5 star part. Buy one if you have these symptoms.

The defrost thermostat in my Frigidaire refrigerator shorted out and blew up. I looked it up on youtube for the fix, ordered this off the internet. I installed it myself, very easy fix once you open up the back of the freezer. Stripped the wires, took the old one out, replaced it with this, crossed my fingers and plugged the fridge back in and presto! it was fixed and I saved myself a repair bill. Good part to get if you have this problem. Also the fridge cools a lot better now, I guess the old one wasn't working as well as it ought to.

I had an issue with my fridge where there was frost build up in the freezer which clogged the return holes from the fridge. I wanted a quick and cheap fix so I didn't have to purchase a new expensive fridge. There was frost build up that blocked the vents and stopped air circulation in my fridge. I did a continuity test before looking to purchase one of these. I got infinite resistance so I went out to look for stores locally to purchase one. They all didn't carry the part or even a generic version of it. Even the fridge hardware store didn't have one which surprised me. I ordered this because it looked very similar to the one I was planning to replace. The manufacturers are the same, the only difference is the operating temperature, I believe it was 30 degrees while my old one was 15. I had no issue installing this, snipped off the old one, stripped a little more off the end and crimped it together using the included crimps. The only thing I didn't understand was the two pieces of white heat shrink that's included. I thought it would shrink over the crimp but after heating it up, it wouldn't shrink more than half it's size. I assume it's to place over the connectors. Product works fine but didn't seem to fix my fridge problem.