Intelligent design. Easy to read. Will work as intended. It's as accurate as you are when you mount it, which is easily done. Good price.Why only 4 stars? The 3M tape on the back needs to be a lot wider. I'm a mechanic for a living, so I know how a little like 1/4" piece of 3M tape is going to work out when you can get water between the rest of the level and the camper. I genuinely wouldn't mind paying a couple bucks more for one that came with the entire back as an adhesive pad.Also, not really sure why they bothered labeling them as front and side. If you can't figure out which side of the camper you're on... well I'm worried about you.

Liked at other trailer levels. Liked the price so I thought I’d try them. Once I’d established the mid point of the trailer (both the width and length), I used 3M double sided tape to attach them. The side to side level marking are pretty accurate (1 gradation = 1 inch of blocks needed to level) and the length ones don’t really matter as you used the tongue jack to level.Checked the trailer level with a builders level and it’s dead on.Good solution at a very reasonable price.

Accurate device

Hacen lo que deben, son precisos y el pegamento que vien incluído es bastante durable. La única queja es que despues de unos meses de uso, el liquido verse se decolora y se vuelve transparente, dificultando ligeramente su lectura.

Excellent levels to put inside your RV to see if you are level on site. Nice and easy to read.

Works well, fast acting. I replaced the double faced tape with a high end 3M VHB tape but I just like things more permanent.

Exelentes Los recomiendo en verdad . Ideales Los Candados para Los remolques. Para evitar q se Los lleven muy facil

First I use a level on the floor inside the camper to get the unit level front to back and side to side by parking on a mostly level surface and then using the scissor jacks to get the camper perfectly level.Then I attached one of these stick-on bubble levels on the front center of the camper, and a second one about mid-way back on the side of the camper.Now I can quickly get it leveled up when we get to our campsite.Tip: the adhesive can give a little, so I used a Sharpie marker to make a very small dot at each of the 4-corners on level so I can tell if the has been moved at all and re-adjust it if necessary. You could put some small screws through the holes to keep it from moving, I just didn't want to drill holes in the side of my camper.

This seems to be one of the better levelers. There are two different scales on these levels. One is for the side-to-side (back of the coach) and the other is for the front-to-back (side of the coach). The reason there are different scales are they are more-or-less calibrated in inches.For example, it is simple Trigonometry to determine how many inches the coach is out of level simply by using the formula for right-angles and solve for one side. The input values are the angle (determined by the level) and distance from the level to the point at where you want to know how many inches of lift are needed.For the side-to-side level, the 1" markings are pretty accurate as long as you put the scale in the center of the coach, as most coaches are within an inch or two of width from another. However, for the front-to-back level, even though you put the scale in the center, the result will vary wildly due to the length of the coach. Using this level on a 18ft coach will result in a far different measurement than say a 35ft coach.Also, if you don't put the level in the center (in the side or back), then the two ends of the coach will be different. For example, if the level is in the center, then when the level measures 1" off level, that means 1" on either front or back. But if you put the level off-center, then the level reading 1" might truly be 1/2" on one end, and 1 1/2" on the other. Again, it is simply a principle of Right Angles in Trigonometry.Also, do not rely on the self-adhesive backing as over time it can move. As hard as it may be for you to do, drilling a couple holes and inserting screws into the levels is the best bet.

The pair of levels are a great value. I recently purchased these for a second time, as the originals were sold with my previous trailer and I wanted to make my new trailer easier to get on a level stance.There really isn't much to go wrong as far as product failure is concerned. Accuracy is up to you with the initial installation.Recommended method of installation is to get your trailer level/RV, front to back, and side to side. Once you have your trailer true, install the graduated levels in locations which will show you front to back level (placed on the side of the trailer) and side to side (place on the front or back of the trailer). Make sure the bubble indicates "level" by being in the center point of the tube.Installation should be done once all your components are "stressed" as they will be for trailer/RV use (I.E. front tongue on a travel trailer, all the normal weight sitting on the winch foot, or in the case of 5th wheels/motorcoaches, landing gear down), try to place the levels on the RV in clear view of the winch/landing gear controls to enable leveling without having to relocate to a different location to view the levels.I accomplished this on a travel trailer by placing one level on the very front center, and the other on the side of the frame tongue close to the winch. Though small, with sharp eye-sight, you can take advantage of the one on the front of the trailer as you position the trailer to see if you can establish a level side to side stance as you near your desired location.On my 5th wheel, my landing gear controls are on the front corner of the main body. I placed one on the side of the rig for front to back level, and another right around the corner on the front side (for side to side level) still within sight of the controls, as well as from the truck cab for backing up. Even though the level is off center, if it is installed properly with the trailer level at the time of installation, it will work fine.As far as the graduated scales are concerned, you will have to find your "scale" for adjustments, as it depends on where the levels are placed in reference to the center of the pivot points.The levels come with a self adhesive foam strip on the back for placement as well as two holes for screws if you wish to drill holes in the side of your rig. I go with the adhesive strip route, as I don't like unnecessary holes. The only negative with the adhesive strips is they will flex if stressed and it can put the levels off level, though this only happened to me with the first pair after the foam tape aged a few years.One last comment . . .the green bubble tube will fade from extended UV exposure. It will not interfere with the accuracy, just makes it a little harder to read.If you are looking for larger levels which can be read from a distance, I know they are out there, but I have no experience with them to make a comparison. I do not wish to clutter the appearance of the rig with large levels.