Well made and fool proof

Bottom line, if everything is done properly from the dimensioning your stock through assembly this jig will give you perfect results. I want to share my experience as a novice woodworker attempting to build all of the cabinetry for my kitchen. To avoid seams in between cabinets I have built face frames as wide as 62" with 9 separate door/drawer openings which really puts this system to the test. I used a custom built router table with a t slot centered 6 1/4 inch away and a Woodpecker PRLV2 router lift which I found easy to adjust with the fence installed. Here is my assessment of the system:Pros:-Very accurate, all inaccuracies were due to dimensioning and preparation of the lumber prior to notching.-Easy to use. After a couple cabinets you will know exactly what to do and can really fly.-Others have said 1/4 inch is too small for kitchen cabinets, it's a matter of taste. I think it looks nice.-I had no issues with tear-out using hard maple.-Stop on fence is very reliable.-Instructions and videos were helpful and pretty clear. I did a couple things differently which I will mention below.Cons:-You will probably make some mistakes and waste some pieces you worked hard on preparing. This wont necessarily happen if you are careful and organized, but the risk is definitely a con in relation to applied moulding which is a more low risk mindless method.-The clamp design isn't the greatest. It works perfectly fine, but I found myself frequently re-tensioning as the router vibration worked the nuts loose. You have to be careful about the set up or it will rub on the black metal part which makes for a less fluid movement.-I may have not set up the lever correctly, but I did not have room for two pieces of 3/4" between my fence and the blade. I removed the back bumpers which solved this problem. I'm sure this is bad advice as it does expose the first couple ball bearings, but was a quick solution.Things to be cautious of:-The fence alignment step and notch height step are the keys to this system. Perform these steps right and things will look great. When holding the setup block to your test notch, position yourself directly under a bright light and do not accept even the narrowest crack of light poking between the set up block or any of the three notch surfaces.-As others have mentioned and the manual mentions, your 1.5" material width better be dead on to fit the 1.5" notch. The only way to know is to test until you get it right. Even if I had my table saw fence set I would re-test if I came back to work on a different day.-Also whatever you use to cross cut material to final length whether it be miter saw or crosscut sled needs to be precisely square. More experienced woodworkers will know this already, but just make sure you are checking this as any deviation will present itself as a gap in your final joint.-Make sure that your material is seated firmly on the table when you run it across the notching bit. The clamp can pull it up slightly if you aren't careful about this.- If your joint isn't fitting properly, take your time to determine the cause. Maybe your piece is slightly out of square and you can flip it around and it fits perfect. Maybe you made the mistake above and need to rerun the notch. Maybe the rail was ripped slightly too wide or narrow. The way to figure out is to flip pieces, test on previously cut notches, etc. Just don't assume.- I moved the pieces through very slowly, about 7 seconds for a pass through 3/4". I dont think you always have to worry about this though, I made very fast passes on some test pieces and had no tearout. This obviously depends on the wood you are using.Things I did differently from instructions (not recommending, just worked for me):-I cut the chamfers first. Mostly because I found it a fast and easier way to get started, but also I liked having my rails ready to test fit as soon as the notches were cut.-I did not (usually) sandwich materials. I found the stop to be accurate and reliable enough to run the pieces subsequently. The stop is only deep enough to butt up one piece anyway, so you are relying on tape and/or touch to align the pieces perfectly before sending them through. I found this to be more time consuming and more error prone. I had NO problem with tearout running through single pieces of hard maple, this may change as the bit dulls. The exception was for long pieces with a notch spaced too far for the fence stop to work (- I created one cabinet end to end just to be able to test the entire system and visualize the final result. After this I ran ALL the notches in ALL cabinets and test fit everything before moving on to beading. Doing it any other way would lead to a ton of time spent realigning the fence and notch height.The last piece of advice I will give is that a nice big assembly surface was so critical for me in testing my progress and final assembly. At risk of sounding like a paid shill for Kreg, I will say that the Kreg KKS2745 45" Clamp Trak Kit, in conjunction with Kreg KKS1030 Klamp Block Set was worth every penny. I built a 4'x4' assembly table with these built in especially for this project and now I cant imagine putting these together without it, though there are obviously other solutions. I only wish I had the space to build it bigger.In summary, I do not think I would be able to duplicate the results I got OR do them as quickly with any other system (outside of some of those commercial solutions), and I scoured the internet for hours reviewing every technique. If you have skill, experience, and success with other techniques then this likely is not worth the price. If you have more time and a tighter budget, I've seen similar processes with shop made jigs on youtube that would be worth trying first. If you are new to this like me and have a good router table, then I think this is the easiest way to get going and worth the price paid.

Great

Pros: - Fairly simple to figure out, setup, and use - Produces near perfect results if you are very careful with it - A lot easier than creating beaded face frames by handCons:- Setup: I ran into several issues getting this setup on my router table (Benchdog promax RT). This requires a t-slot 6-6.5" from the center of the bit, my t-slot was further away. Lucky for me I had a miter slot in the correct spot, but I had to get t-slot to miter adapters (Rockler sells these) and drill out the jig to make them fit. After that I was good on distance. The second problem is the jig, when correctly adjusted to the spacer pin, blocked access to my above table route bit height adjustment. To get around this I came up with a magnetic marker block (cast iron table). I calibrate the jig against the spacer pin, place the magnetic marker block in place to "save" the position the jig is at, remove the jig, adjust my bit height, replace the jig by lining it up with my marker again. If you have a Kreg table I'm certain you'll have no issues here. I think Kreg could have done a lot better designing the jig to work for those of us that don't however.- The clamping system is far from ideal. In order to get decent results with this jig you have to everything lined up absolutely perfectly, and keep it that way as to push your stock across the table and into the bit. A longer piece of stock would be a challenge. I ended up using an extra clamp just be be sure nothing moved.- Price!! For what it is this should either come with several more bits and a better clamping system, or be priced closer to $200.

Having viewed this product in magazine adds, I really felt it would add the detail missing from the face frames I was currently making. However because I live in New Zealand ,the cost of shipping is always a major consideration in any internet purchase. Amazon made it easy,delivery was quick and I was able to track the process all the way.Like all kreg products the beaded face frame system is well made and easy to use,it produces stunning results with ease, once you have mastered the maths to obtain the correct placement of the components you can consistently producequality items. The first project I made with the system was a triple picture frame using beaded face frame inner components surrounded by picture molding, also made on my router, the hardest part of the project was making the miter corners and for this I used a miter-tight vise another great product. I was very pleased with result and I am seriously considering making a whole batch of these for sale. In conclusion I am very pleased with the Kreg beaded face frame system , it is little expensive but so easy to use and is the only way I know to add this detail without any complicated procedures.

This is a great product when building face frame cabinets. Easy to use with great results. Setup is easy to understand from the manual and provides step by step.