Put them on my 2007 Ford F150, and it rides like a brand new one now

Perfect fit easy installation

this strut was a second life product but it did not seem to matter fit right on my pickup and it does the job as the factory ones had broken springs ! thank you

I purchased this item twice and had to return both of them. The ones that I purchased for the driver’s side did not fit properly even though the description stated it was a fit for my vehicle. The holes on the strut did not match up to the bolts on my vehicle. I tried two different ones and returned both. However; the one I purchased for the passenger side was a perfect fit.

Good price looked identical to OEM simple installation 90 minutes each side.

I am just satisfied with the part and the time it took for me to get it.

Arrived on time, exact same product as described and was a perfect fit. Price is slightly better than my local parts store and I didn't even have to leave my house. 100% pre assembled! The re and re took me about an hour in my driveway and would have been way faster if the old tower nuts weren't seized on.

ordered, and came in on time. Would definitely buy this product again, and would also recommend this product to anyone

Both of my front springs were broken on my 2004 F150. Took a couple of hours to change out and they have returned my truck to new. They have been in now for about three weeks and are working great. You need an impact gun with a deep 29mm socket to remove the lower mounting bolt. Straightforward installation.

These were exactly what I expected...OEM replacements. Quality seems the same as original and the ride/handling is the same. I had broken springs on my originals so these complete strut assemblies were definitely the way to go. I suppose if you are replacing your struts yourself, these would be worth it even if your original springs are in good shape since these are a big time-saver (and by the time you buy struts, take off your old assemblies, take them somewhere to pay to have the springs swapped, and then finally installing them, you aren't saving a great deal of money...so these complete assemblies are nice!).These were very quick to install in my 2004 F-150 (New body style). Just remove the three nuts on top, remove the large bolt on the bottom, remove the tie rod end, remove the upper ball joint and the knuckle drops down enough to remove the old one and install new in reverse order. I did both sides in about 1.5 hours including dragging out my jack stands, removing wheels, swapping struts, putting away tools and sweeping the garage floor. The only complaint I have is that one of the supplied nuts had a defective thread that wouldn't allow it to start on the top studs of the strut. No biggie...I just used one of the old nuts from the original struts. Amazon had the best price on these items although there were other suppliers with nearly as low.I do want to mention that some people are also removing the sway bar link so the control arm drops down enough to remove/install the strut assembly. I found that if you jack up the front and do both sides at the same time, it allows it to drop enough. But, you must do both sides in tandem (remove the 3 nuts on top of both side, remove the lower bolt on both sides, remove the upper ball joint nut on both sides, remove the tie rod from both sides). Then, it doesn't matter so much that the sway bar is still attached because both sides drop down at the same time (this method also saves time since you already have the tool in your had...may as well do both sides at once). If you are jacking up one side at a time to do it, then you may have to remove the sway bar links because it won't drop far enough.As for the brake lines, mine didn't get too tight when dropping the control arm but I see others have mentioned removing the bracket to allow more play in the brake line when the control arm is dropped. I would recommend keeping an eye on it and you may or may not need to do this...mine had plenty of slack so I didn't.I would also recommend giving all the nuts/bolts a good squirt of WD-40 or the like. I always use Kano Kroil since it has always worked best for me. WD-40 or PB Blaster or something like that would also work well...just douse it a day before you plan to replace your struts and you should be good.Lastly, I prefer using a hammer to whack the knuckle to remove the ball joint and tie rod end. This method has always worked well for me and took 2-3 whacks for each one on this job...very quick and effective. If you use a puller, you run the risk of damaging the boot so just be careful if you go that route. To clarify, you take the nut off and then whack the knuckle/spindle near the tie rod or ball joint (DO NOT hit the tie rod or ball joint). The jarring effect of hitting it causes the tapered bolt to come loose from the knuckle. If you want to see this method, search you tube for "Daystar Leveling Kit Install on a Ford F-150" and that shows decent details on this and is a good overview of strut replacement (in the video, they are installing a leveling kit but it's basically the same steps for strut replacement. It's the video with the red F-150).

My 2004 Ford F-150 had random noises and vibration coming from the front end at times. Also, the ride height seemed to be disproportionately high in the back. With over 100,000 miles on my truck I had already done ball joints and tie rod ends. While under the truck recently, I noticed both front springs were broken. Just over 1 full coil winding had broken off each side. The springs definitely had to be replaced. Obviously the shock absorbers were probably worn out as well.There are several manufacturers offering similar strut options. I chose Monroe because I was familiar with the brand plus Amazon had them in stock ready to ship. I wanted to post a review with some step by step tips to hopefully spare someone a little grief. ( I'll assume that you have the required tools and skill, have the wheels off already and understand that you follow such tips and perform this type of work at your own risk. )1) Raise the truck and support it securely with a jack stand under the frame behind the front wheel.2) Place the jack under the lower control arm to compress the spring somewhat, be sure not to obstruct access to the bottom mount for the stabilizer link ( It's a good idea to use a block of wood under the arm, penetrating oil should be applied to all fasteners mentioned )3) Remove the 3 nuts securing the top of the strut assembly.4) Loosen the large bolt holding the strut to the lower control arm.5) Remove the nut securing the stabilizer link to the lower control arm ( on my truck an 8mm socket and 18mm wrench was used because one stud spun freely )6) Remove the bolt securing the brake line bracket to the frame, but do not disconnect any of the lines ( this is done just to take the stress off them when completing the next few steps )7) Remove the nut securing the upper ball joint to the spindle, and separate the ball joint from the spindle ( use your method of choice, I prefer to use a large pitman arm puller if it's stubborn )8) Carefully lower the jack allowing the control arm to slowly drop down, creating enough room to remove the strut assembly.9) Remove the bolt securing the strut to the control arm, observe the orientation of the top mount, then remove the strut assembly from the truck ( it's tight but with patience it will come out, be careful around the CV joint boots )Install the replacements in the same steps in the reverse order, with the strut assembly rotated so that the top mount is in the correct orientation to line up with the holes in the frame. Important note: On either side the procedure is the same. Be sure to wear safety glasses and mechanics gloves. Do not attempt to disassemble the strut assemblies. Follow manufacturers recommendations regarding installation, fasteners and torque values.Update: I set aside 4 hours to do the work and did end up spending about 2 hours on each side. For anyone curious about ride quality, I have no complaints. The ride height has already settled down to where it should be ( day after install with approx 100 miles on them ).

I bought these struts for my truck because the ride had become unbearable; it rocked and wabbled, especially with a trailer attached.The new struts went in within a couple of hours, and made a huge difference in how the truck handled, as well as keeping the passengers from getting motion sick on long rides. I was worried that these would give the truck a hard ride, but not at all. The ride remained more car like, but still handled the weight and toeing of a truck.Install was easy in just removing the three bolts on top, the bolt on the bottom, and removing the tie rod nut to allow the assembly to be removed from its body position.