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Your cart is empty.Backed by superior materials and rigorous testing, MOOG® outer tie rod ends deliver reliable performance you can count on. MOOG problem-solving innovations ensure fast, hassle-free installation.
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on February 23, 2025
Put me back on the road after a minor alignment! Love moog parts! 👍👍
Vanessa
Reviewed in the United States on January 19, 2025
Good so far
Holly Girl
Reviewed in the United States on October 3, 2024
fits great
Placeholder
Reviewed in the United States on October 31, 2022
can't go wrong with moog ! Or Amazon pricing ,shipping or customer service .
John C. Wickman
Reviewed in the United States on July 18, 2021
OEM quality, fit right. Made in Mexico, not China.
Luis Guerrero
Reviewed in the United States on September 11, 2020
cheaper than most auto parts and great quality
Mike
Reviewed in the United States on April 13, 2018
You never really know how big of a difference it makes to have new parts. I never had the chance to drive my truck when new, but now with all new suspension parts, it makes me get an understanding. This was for my 2004 GMC Envoy and the difference was pretty noticeable, there is a ton less body roll and my steering wheel is much stiffer. Before I was able to jiggle it side to side like 2 inches either side before the truck moved. Now if I move it a little, it actually goes where you turn it :)HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT FOR AN ALIGNMENT.
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on June 30, 2016
Amazon and the label on the Moog box claim "Made in Mexico", which I prefer to "Made in Communist China".As said in other reviews, Moog does not cut threads for the grease zerk to screw into. The supplied grease zerk supposedly has "self-tapping" threads, but I could not get it to start. I had to use a 1/16-27 NPT pipe-thread tap to "JUST" start cutting the threads in the bottom of the tie rod end, then screw the zerk in. Since I had threads started in the tie rod end, I used a 45 degree zerk to make accessing the grease fitting easier since with a straight zerk, the wheel is in the way.My local repair shop wanted $300 (!!!) to install the left outer tie-rod end and align the vehicle afterwards. I measured the old tie rod end from center of socket--where the grease zerk would go, if it had one--to the inner tie rod end. My measurement was 9.715 inches using an electronic digital caliper. I made sure to not twist the "boot" of the inner tie rod end as I loosened the jam nut and unthreaded the old tie rod end, and screwed the new one in using anti-seize on the threads. I lightly seated the taper in the steering knuckle, backed-off the nut, and verified that the taper was correct and secure. (I fully-tightened the nut later) and then measured again from grease-zerk opening to inner tie rod end--exactly 9.715 inches. During the test-drive, the steering wheel needed just a bit of "left turn", about ten degrees, to go straight. I adjusted the inner tie rod end about 3/4 of one turn by loosening the jam nut, and wrenching the inner tie rod end almost one turn, to shorten the tie rod assembly. This straightened the steering wheel. Since the only change to the suspension was the one tie rod end, the front wheel toe should be right where GM set it thirteen years ago.Be aware that the wrench surface size of the jam nut and the castle nut were different from the original parts. No problem, but required additional trips to the tool box for the correct wrenches.Service manual says "33 ft/lbs" for the tie rod stud nut at the steering knuckle, (PLUS whatever you need to line-up the first slot in the castle nut with the cotter pin hole. I actually had ~60 ft lbs on mine before the castle lined up with the hole.) Service manual says 55 ft/lbs for the jam nut at the inner tie rod end. I went by feel on the jam nut, as I can't get a torque wrench on that nut.Once fully installed, grease the zerk until you see the dust boot begin to bulge a bit.I'd be happier if Moog tapped the hole for the grease zerk and included a 45 degree zerk rather than the straight one, and had the same-sized and style fasteners as OEM--no cotter pin and castle nut! Nevertheless, the thing is installed and I saved about $240 over the grossly-inflated cost of having the shop put it in.
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