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Your cart is empty.Backed by superior materials and rigorous testing, MOOG® ball joints deliver reliable performance you can count on. MOOG problem-solving innovations ensure fast, hassle-free installation.
101101
Reviewed in the United States on March 17, 2025
3/22/2025 Update:After 100 miles, they're holding up so far.3/16/2005 ReviewSo far, so good. - perfect fit for a 2005 Honda CR-V (CRV) SE with a 5-speed automatic transmission.These were very similar to the OEM ball joints we removed having no retainer clips/rings whatsoever.The item we received was not leaking grease - they were both in-tact.I'll update this review after 1 year (+1 star if they hold up, - 1 star if they disintegrate)
Zach P.
Reviewed in the United States on February 15, 2025
The car failed inspection and I had to scramble to get some new ball joints. These came quickly and seemed to be very high quality. As others have mentioned, they have a mark on the rubber boot that indicates the "inboard" orientation. Additionally this style doesn't come with any snap rings, but my OEM Honda ball joints that I replaced did not have any rings either. I believe these these to be closest to the OEM quality. Finally, if you rent the ball joint press from the auto parts store, (I went to O'reillys) make sure you also get the honda adapters, because the regular press sleeves won't work on these wheel hubs. Good luck, you got this!
Rob
Reviewed in Canada on November 27, 2024
Perfect fit for my 2003 CRV. Make sure to pay attention to the faintly stamped “inboard” indicator on the rubber boot for proper installation.
Phil McKrevice
Reviewed in the United States on October 13, 2024
Had a bad ball joint on a 2003 CRV. This installed just fine. No, you do not need a snap ring for this type of ball joint.
Erk
Reviewed in the United States on November 23, 2023
These are slightly different looking at the top compared to the oem parts, but they fit like they should and work great. If you’re going to install them yourself there here’s some advice. Put them in the freezer overnight to shrink them slightly before installing them. It’s going to take either an air ratchet or more muscle than the average person can muster to press them in place. They DO NOT have grease fittings due to the fact that the location of the fitting would be too close to the axle in the knuckle, again there’s zero room for a grease fitting. They’ll still last a long time as long as you don’t live down a rocky dirt road. Moog seems to make everything to oem or better specs. My only suggestion would be to inspect all your other parts that may need to be replaced before or while you’re installing them since this is a very difficult project by itself. Get some black paint and some undercoat paint to clean it up at the same time. Do them both, your tie-rod ends, and sway links at one time, your suspension will thank you.
Raleigh
Reviewed in the United States on September 8, 2020
For a 2005 Honda CR-V, AWD:Five stars for product quality and fit the control arm slot. Four stars because it was 1.583 versus the OEM 1.59 diameter, so it slid into the slot attached to the splash plate a little too easily with just a hammer (no press needed), did not come with a C-clamp although it has the pre-made grove for one which I ended up needing just to make the thing tight enough in the slot so I had to buy another ball joint ($21!) that came with a C-clamp to use on the Moog, shows no viable entry to re-grease it, arrived in crappy amazon bubble wrap package with the Moog tie rod end, its box was opened (but product still inside) and grease was already seeping out of the two square holes on top of rubber (Is that where you re-grease it???)...Despite all that, it definitely looks top quality.Didn't necessarily fix the noises my car was/still is making but the old ball joint was definitely bad, so we'll see how long it lasts...Picture for reference
Kylef
Reviewed in the United States on August 28, 2018
Bought these for my 05 crv se awd. It says they work for it and are oversized which is what I was looking for. Unsure if the ones I got were misspackaged but they were way to big to the point I could not install. Not only was the body to large to press into the knuckle but after throughly checking, the "hat" of the ones I received were going to be to wide to even seat properly. Not sure what happened.Obviously moog has a quality product. I think these were either packaged wrong or mislabeled at some point.Only reason for the 1 star.They will be shipped today for return.
PerWattBaitSwitch
Reviewed in the United States on June 3, 2014
Yup, I would look up Moog before all the others. A bargain, considering the cost of a whole new factory spindle assembly (the thing that hold the wheel bearing/hub, and bolts to the lower strut (shock).On this application (2nd Gen CR-V), BE SURE to read the barely-readable orientation marking/writing that's molded into the dark/black dust boot ("inboard" means face that side towards engine). u "just" press out the factory joint and press in this one, using a kindof beefy C-clamp that comes with adaptors (and u need optional adapters). You can buy, but I rented the tool at a popular auto parts store. Be sure to get the other box of Honda-specific pressing cup adapters- it makes for a mild puzzle-piece challenge getting the "stack" correct. Open the C-clamp _all the way, almost till out of threads.I dont advised hammering this thing in. Sure, _maybe pound the body side when the threaded ball side is free, but if you hit the grease cap, or worse, bend that part of the spindle (alignment would be really funky).While the R&R can be done on-car (after removal steps to allow the CV spline to come off the spindle), you do need to jack up the car high enough to clear the C-clamp in its fully open length.When un-boxing, dont freak out -this application doesnt include/need a grease nipple because there's no room for it (CV axle end gets in the way). And, it doesn't need the big circlip retainer to hold the press-thru end, cuz the forces/weight of a lower ball joint pressed into the spindle ... favors keeping it in (just dont be skipping boulders against the lower control arm ... but then u got other bigger problems).;)The thing I will kinda miss is: the weirdly-bent factory cotter pin. This one is generic, so for tradition's sake, try to set the keep of this cotter pin by doing the fancier bendy thing (i.e., follow the contour of the nut at the top/castle)
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