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Nilight 51" X 36" X 5" Universal Roof Rack Cargo Basket
250 Lbs Heavy-Duty Capacity
Durable powder-coated steel construction for long-lasting corrosion resistance.
Nilight 51" X 36" X 5" Universal Roof Rack Cargo Basket
Please make sure your car has a crossbar.
- Before each use, make sure mounting brackets are securely attached to crossbar.
- We suggest applying the included anti-rust sealant around all connecting joints, welds, end caps to ensure rust-free Roof Cargo Basket.
Features
Universal mounting bracket
Easy to install with 4 universal U-bolts. Easily attaches to most types of roof rack bottom rails. (Note - make sure your car has a crossbar)
Upgrade design
Instead of U-bolts, we use a rubber-clad metal strip design to better protect the roof bars from wear and rust
Durable powder-coated steel
Finished with an E-coat and carbide black powder coat for long-lasting corrosion resistance.
Weight Capacity 250LBS
Perfect for hauling cargo bags, camping equipment, luggage and more.
Nilight Universal Roof Rack Cargo Basket will work well with any vehicle
Upgraded Quality
Application
Judy King
Reviewed in the United States on March 7, 2025
Love the rack but it does have it's problem. The bars will have surface rust quickly. But does amazing on my car. It does what I need and was SUPER EASY to put together and install on the car. If it wasn't for the rust I would give this a 5/5
Potatoking
Reviewed in the United States on January 27, 2025
On a 2013 base velosterPics are two mounting positions, two colors.Still need to add your own coat of paint or rubber spray which I will be doing. Already starting to rust upon opening. An effortless $5 can of rustoleum works great.You will hear wind & a lot of things can easily be heard through the veloster anyway. Farther back it's mounted, the less wind you will hear.Assembles very easy, everything lines up. Reflectors not included. May be pointless but I put some on. Would totally buy again.
Jimmy Barberan
Reviewed in the United States on May 31, 2024
First off, I have to say that what looked like a simple attachment of the "JUST" the rails alone, I encountered that it was not as easy as it looked. The middle narrow rack that connects to the 2 wider side racks were not aligned at all!!! I had to hammer this so hard with a rubber mallet...that whole process took me more than an hour for what should have been a 2 minutes if at all to connect both sides to that piece. Secondly, after I finally got it all in place and put on my cross bars, the whole middle looked caved in...not a lot but noticeable and bothersome for me to look at that after I spent over 2 hours putting that together and I am very handy with tools and building things so it's not that I didn't know what I was doing. With that said, yes I had and have trouble getting the ratchet straps put on the easy release piece so that I wish would have been pre-installed at the vendors' end because one of the reasons I bought this was because it came with the net and the straps.....I am going away today w/o it so I will have to wait until I come back and have either someone help me out or look at youtube video to learn how to do it. Overall I am disappointed I had to hammer this out to get the pcs to fall in and that afterwards the rack did not looked straight (not because of the hammering)..... the only thing that was hammered were the end pcs to fit in but overall the whole rack looked sunk in. Get yourself a better rack.... I am staying with this garbage because it took me a long time to get it up there and at this point, I don't feel like taking it all apart once I come back from my trip to return it....but I just might if I find the strength!!
FG Jr
Reviewed in the United States on August 12, 2015
Just finished installing the light bar on the front upper roll bars of a Teryx4 UTV. The curved light fits nicely around the curve of the Teryx4 roof as I hoped it would. The problem with the curvature is that the mounts end up needing to be mounted to a curved surface or fit exactly between the roll bars. i was going to mount this to a flat panel mounted to the roll bars... Didn't happen. Had to modify some additional mounts that I had from other ATV's. I wish now that I would have purchased the straight bar for installation ease. I haven't taken this on the trails yet but tried it in the yard. It turned night into day and made my headlights unnoticeable. There also are some issues with the manufacture of the unit. The assembly covers weren't the correct shape and noticeable gaps are present. I will be sealing this unit prior to taking it in the rain / streams.Update: Took the unit on a night ride in the mountains of Windrock Park, TN. The light performed great. The trails were lit up clearly at a far enough distance to drive at a rapid pace. The wide angle lighting made it possible to handle the tightest turns with confidence. There were occasional light showers and a week later no fog or leakage (I did seal the unit with RTV). I used the Mistuning 40 amp light bar wiring harness and it performed as advertised. The light bar held up well to the jarring terrain and moisture. I would purchase again if I had another vehicle to put it on. Changed the rating to 5 stars from 4.
Jeff black
Reviewed in the United States on December 22, 2015
12-21-15 just installed.I've read many reviews on lots of different light bars. I decided on this unit. It looks great. It's very bright! I'm impressed. What you have to keep in mind is that this is only a $100 50" light bar. That's crazy cheap so don't expect the world. You will need the following items to install this light bar completely and make it look professional:a) purchase the correct light bar brackets that fit your vehicle. You will have to drill holes and install screws into the A pillar under the door seal. DONT drill it into the top of your roof and run the wires in the headliner.b) purchase the wiring harness made by Rigid Industries. 40190 wiring harness for a 50" light bar. REPLACE THE 40a FUSE WITH A 30a if using a 50" bar or size the fuse to match the draw of the light. (Note: to find amperage, divide the wattage by the voltage, the answer is your current draw). This particular harness uses 12AWG wiring to the battery feed and light which is what you want. Soldier the harness to the light bar. Use a heat shrink over each conductor that is soldiered, then a large heat shrink over the entire thing. Tuck it in the door seal leading to the hood.c) to prevent this inexpensive unit from fogging up or leaking, my son & I took the end caps apart and resealed them with clear "Solar Seal". This is a commercial grade roofing sealant. We also ran a bead of Solar Seal all the way across the top and bottom to prevent water from penetrating. Like I said earlier, this is only a $100 bar. The factory China gaskets are BASIC. so in order for this to stand up to the weather, you gotta seal it up extra.Further Tips:Don't forget to use rubber grommets when passing thru the firewall with the wiring. If you don't, they will short out over time.The wire harness does not come with any documentation. Your on your own. Find a buddy that is savy with wiring. I will tell you that the toggle switch provided with the harness has three poles which are not labeled.The gold pole is the ground (black wire from harness).The center pole is the load (blue wire).The other outer silver pole is the hot (red wire).GOOD LUCK!
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