El producto compródo es 220 voltios y Necesito sea cambiado por un producto de 110 votis

Started humming and stopped switching from B to A after about 10 minutes.

thank you

Terminals are too small for 100 amps

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As a manual transfer switch it works great, how ever it broke 2 second after being on automatic

This unit is a basic 100a switch, same contact design used in xfer switch manufacturers all over the place.Main power conductors:One contact pair has your primary power, one has your backup power, and one has your load output. The electrical connections are switched by heavy stranded cable that's permanently connected to the load terminals, and switches from source to backup contacts.These terminals are basically equal to a wire. You can run 12v across them or 240v, they're just conducting electrons from one set to the next. I dismantled the unit, and there are no other connections to these contacts.Switching action:The switching is performed by a solenoid, or by turning the plastic knob.Either method rotates a plastic camshaft that flips the internal copper stranded wire from one set of contacts to the other, and pushes a microswitch, relative to the switch position. This microswitch appears to make or break power to the auto-switch solenoid; so the solenoid doesn't continue to consume power after it receives a switch command.Where voltage matters:There are basic control electronics running off the Phoenix connectors (green plugs), driven by the 220v power.In normal conditions, there's 220v present on the phoenix connections for main and backup (the switch doesn't care if the large lugs are even connected).I'm assuming that voltage present on the "1", or primary side, energizes an internal relay, and when it drops (main power lost), the de-energized position routes secondary power to the solenoid to perform the switching action. When main power returns, it likely re-energizes the internal relay, sending power to the other side of the solenoid coil, causing it to switch back. There may be a delay timer, but it doesn't look like it, so bear in mind, if this is during a storm and power is glitching on and off, this thing will probably switch constantly (and you'd have to switch it to manual and wait for main power to stabilize).How to wire it:On each of the power source contacts (large screw terminals), run a pair of small jumper wires to the green phoenix connector on the same respective side.For "A" side, run a jumper from your power lug to "AR" and another to "AN" on the green connector, then for backup power side, go to "BR" and "BN". This will provide power to the controls from your main or backup sources. You could really power these from any 220v source, though, it doesn't have to come off your switched power sources.The "Passive Output":I didn't look too deep, but my guess is that these provide a status output to determine switch position. If you use the switch like I did, they are useless, and appear to require a continuous power feed.My repurposing:I originally bought this to switch from 110v grid to battery at a remote location, but accidentally bought the 220v version.Rather than return it, I'm using it to switch on/off an electric water heater.I have the water heater connected to the "A" terminals.I have main power coming in on the output or load terminals.I have nothing connected to the "B" terminals.I have the 220v from the main power going through 2 microrelays, which are controlled by a microcontroller (ESP8266).One leg of the 220v feed both the AR and BR phoenix/green terminals.The other leg feeds (2) 220v microrelays.Relay1 goes to AN green terminal, relay2 goes to BN green terminal.Activating relay1 triggers the switching action, which connects Load to "A", powering the water heater.Activating relay2 triggers reversed switching action, which connects Load to "B", effectively disconnecting the water heater. This allows me to put it on a schedule in my house control software.The most useful aspect of this in my use-case is that it can switch a fairly heavy power load and stop consuming power. You can switch heavy loads with contactors (which is what I'd used previously), but they require continuous power (sure, less power than the load, but still powered).

Only switches one way from normal to backup power, doesn't work to switch back to normal power regardless if there is backup power or not.

It broke after 2 mins.