My bathtub drain broke and would leak. I called plumbers for estimates and they wanted over $300 to put a simple drain in. Which is crazy!! I bought my own drain here on Amazon and fixed it myself for less than $35. The removal of the drain was very hard. I used this but had to tap it with a hammer to get it in first because it kept slipping. Once it finally locked in it took a lot of torque with a wrench to get the old one out. Once that was done I just applied sealant to the new one on the threads and it went right in. Great tool to have. And I saved a ton of money 🤑💰😁

I recently used the Superior Tool 05255 1.5-Inch Tub Drain Extractor to remove an old and stubborn tub drain, and it worked like a charm! The extractor's unique helical knurl design bites into the drain, providing a strong grip that won't slip. I used it with a ½" ratchet drive and extension, and it made the removal process much easier than I anticipated.The hardened steel construction ensures durability, and the gold plate finish adds a nice touch. The tool is well-balanced and comfortable to use, making the job less strenuous. I was able to remove the drain without any issues, and it saved me from having to call a plumber.Overall, this tub drain extractor has exceeded my expectations in terms of effectiveness and ease of use. It's a must-have for anyone dealing with stubborn tub drains. Highly recommend it!

Able to remove stuck corroded threaded 1.5 inch diameter metal drain flange from threaded ABS drain shoe. Lower price than Home Depot.Made in USA. Looks to be good quality.Works as advertised.

Works perfect. At first, you hit it with a rubber hammer on top to insert tight, then you turn it with a wrench, it will unscrew slowly and safe.

Excelente! Gracias!

Quality rebranded husky brand steel tool. With a couple LIGHT taps with a hammer and slow steady crank of a 1/2 drive ratchet and a VERY corroded damaged 1.5in tub drain came out without issue. I did soak the drain in CLR a couple times a few days in advance to help out. Works out great and is about $7 cheaper than Home Depot. Don’t know when I will need to use it again. Cheaper than calling a plumber.

todo bien, gracias

This tool is brilliant and removes wastes that do not have a crossmember inside. Many of the newer bath wastes in particular, some of the click clack type, do not have enough of a ridge inside to turn them out with mole grips, long nose pliers or other tools.You tap the tool into the waste lightly with a hammer and insert a 1/2inch ratchet into the slot at the top of the tool and turn anti-clockwise and it unscrews the waste with ease. The tool is not available in the UK but it's worth waiting for from America. Highly recommended.

Summary: The tool worked great as there were only two other options, spend several hours trying to cut it out or try another internal wrench at 4x the price (which had marginal reviews). If you don't get around to replacing these tub drains every few years (depending upon your water condition) before the center cross is gone, it's not a matter of 'if' but when you will need one of these tools to get the drain out.First a couple of comments about the tool itself:The one I received was "MADE IN USA". It also was stamped with "HUSKY" and is the same one I saw at HD but this was $5 less. The photo shows, it came packed in a 'Superior Tool' blister pack.There were some questions about the sizing of drains that this tool will fit. I took actual measurements at the largest and smallest diameter of the tool I received as shown in the photos. The tool will fit in a hole diameter of 1.5" to 1.75" and get a bite. If the hole diameter of the particular drain is outside of these limits, it will not work. Make sure when measuring the diameter of the drain to measure deep enough in the hole using a caliper, not just the top radius.As other positive reviews have posted, there is some technique that I will sum up here. I also suggest watching a few of the videos.1) I didn't heat the drain prior to removing. I don't know if that would help or not. The drain was installed with a lot of plumbers putty coating the threads and flange. (see photo) It's been in for 15 years and pretty dried out. I should have replaced the drain a long time ago but I wasn't sure of what I was getting into. Rest assured, it is not too complicated. However, if you do not know what the drain pipe connectors below the tub are made out of, assume it is ABS plastic. Hence, watch out if you use a heat gun as you could melt the pipe that the drain is screwed into and you won't be able to get a new drain installed! Also, my tub is fiberglass and could be damaged by too much heat.2) I used a file to clean up some of the loose corrosion so the tool would get a good bite on the drain.3) "tap" means hit it pretty good (as if you were center punching steel but not driving nails) several (8-10) times until the tool is seated firmly and squarely the in the hole. You should be able to feel when the tool is seated firmly as the hammer will bounce differently when it is seated. If it pops out when turning to extract, just repeat tapping it in. I had to do this a couple of times until I seated it in firmly enough because I was a bit timid in the tapping. Just keep tapping until the hammer bounce is firm is the best way to describe this. When re-seating, twist until you feel it get into the grooves already started.4) I used a 16" breaker bar to get the drain loosened a quarter turn, then switched to a standard ratchet handle. It took some effort to break it loose even with the breaker bar.5) To remove the drain from the tool, I just held the drain with a big channel lock and reversed the ratchet. Didn't take much effort at all and it popped right off.Total time in the tub: about 5 minutes. If your drain is too far gone, this tool might not work and you might have to go an alternate method. But if there is still some metal left, it's probably worth it to try this first for $15. Watch the return policy because the seller might not take it back if the pack has been opened.

I first tried one of those drain removers with the fork on one end. Apparently, one of two things happen when you use one of those. Either the poor quality fork breaks or it tears out the cross pieces in your drain both making the tool useless. I was lucky and broke the cross pieces in the drain so I would still be able to use the fork tool to install the new drain – assuming I ever got the old drain out.Enter this guy. I tapped it in with a hammer and gave it a twist with my ratchet. It turned but slipped out. It took three or four tries for the tool to get a good grip due to the massive amounts of mineral deposits built up in the drain. Once much of that had been scraped away this tool gripped perfectly and the drain turned. Great! Uh oh…. Yeah, the drain is turning, but so is the pipe (the tailpiece) it’s connected to. Not so great. Now I have to go under the house and grab this pipe and secure it and then go back with this tool and try to remove the drain.I got my son to go under the house with a pipe wrench. He gripped that pipe, I tapped this tool into the drain and twisted. Uh oh! This small job just got bigger. The tool did a great job of grabbing the drain. The issue was that the drain has been in there corroding and rusting for thirty years. It didn’t break the drain loose from the tailpiece. It broke the tailpiece. That’s not the tools fault. It gripped as it was supposed to. I went and bought a new tailpiece and installed the new drain using that fork tool.So, after lightly tapping this tool into the drain with a hammer it did eventually grip and I was able to get the drain out. It did slip a few times due to the ten pounds of mineral deposits that had built up in the drain. (It was like that when I bought the house.) Once it scraped a bunch of those deposits away it gripped the drain well and you know the rest of the story. It works almost to well.

Looks like a lot of people have had success with this well made tool. There maybe a small percentage of old drains that the tool just slips and wont bite. Unfortunately mine is a very old drain and the tool won't grab where as the knurled bite of other removal tools like the rigid tool may have been a better choice for my drain but there is no way to tell in advance of buying one and trying it. As a last resort tactic I have been advised to use a Dremel tool to carefully cut a slot down the side my old tub drain. I still rate it a three since I am sure it will work well on the next drain.UPDATE UPDATE. My tub drain was probably the worst situation you could encounter. It was very old very corroded, the cross bars were completely gone and it turns out the original installer had used a sealant compound not conventional to plumbing and thus the threads were literally glued. I tried all the suggestions listed but the tool just spun in the drain and would not retain it's bite. A 20 inch flex bar in the hands of a gorilla would cause any tool to slip. Finally I used a heat gun followed by a cordless impact driver and finally a long flex bar with my wife standing atop it in the drain on an 8x8 scrap of 3/4 plywood and it finally gripped but remained a fight to the last thread. I doubt any other tool would have been useful in my case. This tool allows you to hammer it as much as you like then and utilize the flex bar for additional leverage, and you can use the impact driver with it and stand on it as well and after all that the tool still looks like new. I have upgraded my review of it to a 5 star. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.