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ToqueCAN
ToqueCAN is an open-source Raspberry Pi toque designed for 3D printers running Klipper firmware. Designed with 3D printers with small electronics chambers in mind, it adds 2x CAN bus and 3x USB connectors and powers your Raspberry Pi from your printer's power supply without occupying much space.
CAN Bus Connectors
2x (2x2) MX3.0 connectors for CAN bus communication and power supply for up to 2 CAN bus devices.
Up to 1M CAN is supported using a SN65HVD232 transceiver and a STM32F072 MCU for the firmware. Both Candlelight and Klipper (in bridge mode) firmwares are supported.
Even more CAN devices are supported through the MOAR_CAN expansion connector. (Normally populated with 2x jumpers)
3 Port USB Hub
3x USB-A connectors are available through the 4-port USB hub built into the ToqueCAN. The other USB port is internally connected to the MCU for CAN bus.
Connect to your Raspberry Pi (or similar SBC) using a short USB A to C cable (not included in the box).
A 180-degree USB adapter is included in the box for more compact USB cable routing.
5V ARGB LED Control
5V addressable RGB LED connector for controlling LEDs like WS2812 (RGB), SK6812 (RGBW) and similar.
ARGB LED control is only supported when using Klipper (in bridge mode) firmware.
30mm / 40mm PWM Fan Support
ToqueCAN supports PWM fans for cooling the Raspberry Pi (or similar SBC). 5V and 24V (or input voltage) fans are supported. For fan speed control (PWM), the signal can come from the MCU if using Klipper in bridge mode firmware, or it can come from the Raspberry Pi. Jumpers are on the PCB to configure these settings.
ToqueCAN has a 30mm fan cutout on the PCB. Fans up to 40mm are supported. Fan mount requires 3D-printed parts. Fan and fan mounting hardware are not included.
5V Regulator
ToqueCAN features a buck converter for powering the Raspberry Pi (or other similar SBC), USB devices and the ToqueCAN itself from your printer's power supply. Up to 24V input voltages are supported.
Power Input
Screw terminal for power input for the ToqueCAN. Up to 24V input voltages are supported.
Up to 8A is available for power draw through the CAN bus connectors.
10A fused (replaceable) for protection.
Included Hardware
- 2x MX3.0 Connectors and Pins
- 3x XH Connectors and Pins
- 5x Jumpers
- M2.5 Screws, Stand-offs and Inserts
- 180-Degree USB Adapter for Cleaner Cable Routing
Open Source
ToqueCAN is open-source hardware. The source files, gerbers, BOM, 3D CAD models, STLs for fan mounts, manual and more can be found on its repository.
J. A.
Reviewed in the United States on January 17, 2025
For a while I was messing with CANbus on my printers and always just went with home hacked up solutions. This board is actually a pretty cool way to integrate that functionality without all that hackery. Thanks to the previous reviewer who pointed out some wiring corrections and I was able to get the board up and running. So far the board has been working fine as expected, but I'm not sure it's something I would have got if I already had a working CAN setup. Yes it did simplify my wiring and it does work well, but my old setup also worked well. The nice thing is that it does offer 2 CANbus ports, but as of right now I have yet to make use of the second one. I've toyed with the idea of converting to an IDEX Ender setup and may use it for that, or just to run a 2nd printer on another instance. In either case, I could see that being a more useful scenario than running just 1 CAN connection to 1 printer from this board. If you are going for a fresh setup then go for it. If you already have working setup, you can spend the money on something else.
RT
Reviewed in the United States on June 18, 2024
I migrated from an existing Waveshare CAN hat (never had issues at 500kbit/s) setup paired with the BTT SB2209 setup on a Switchwire conversion.Wiring is straight forward. Screw terminal for power should fit ferrules up to 20AWG wiring. I'm still running on 12V and this board has no problems with it.I did change up how I have my CAN cable connected. Instead of recrimping to use the micro-fit connection I repinned the cable from the SB2209 kit to plug straight into the MOAR_CAN connector on the outside pins for CAN1 with the 120 ohm termination (manual diagram error noted later) while keeping my existing power connection setup.The board I got had a pretty bad GPIO pass through header that was soldered on crooked that should've been exchange/replaced. I was able to fix it myself but while doing the fix I thought maybe I should've gone and requested a replacement. Hopefully this was a one off issue that managed to slip by Isik's Tech.Was this board necessary? Not at all for my Switchwire. It did help give me a solution to mount a fan to the RPi which I wanted to do for some time. As this is still a U2C board I went from SPI from the RPi to needing another USB cable.The big change for me is I went from a separate power source for the RPi to getting power from the onboard step down volt regulator which I'm on the fence about. Yeah I could add in the +5V disable pin for the step down to continue to use the separate power source but disabling that pin also means the U2C and USB hub will be powered through the RPi.The solution is to remove the +5V header connector that passes power from the ToqueCAN to the RPi which isn't really a simple thing to do if header comes preinstalled depending where you get this board from.Maybe for a future revision add a pair of jumper pins to that allows the option to not power the RPi from the TouqeCAN while keeping +5V power everything else.Otherwise the ToqueCAN is a neat solution to make things as compact as possible which was the Isik's Tech original idea. You have two CAN connections out of t he box with the option easily chain more is quite powerful, but for one who would want to take advantage of it might not be many. But again the solution is there for someone that needs it. Great part is this is open source with the PCB files available on the ToqueCAN github.*Note*At the time of the writing the review June 15, 2024 in the manual for the MOAR_CAN connector section the diagram is reversed. It shows inner pins (2 and 3) are for CAN1 with the 120ohm termination resistor while the outside pins (1 and 4) are for CAN2. CAN1 and the resistor should be on pins 1 and 4 while CAN2 on pins 2 and 3. The schematic at the end of the PDF manual shows the correct pins.
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