high quality

Vont bien et le prix est très bon.

These brackets were inexpensive, delivered quickly, well built and easy to install. Definitely worth the price.

Porte de garage.

Did the job perfectly.Very satisfied.

Easy to install

They will fix issue.

Replaced 20+ year old rusted bottom cable brackets on standard 1-3/8 in. thick metal garage door with no issues. Just make sure to replace the lift cables at the same time.

The parts arrived on time and were the right ones for our door, easy to install.

Nice rustproof garage door fix

These lifting brackets have some very desirable design features. The frame was made from a thicker metal sheet than the most common parts precision cut by laser (the ridged edges give it away), bent, and electroplated with zinc to resist corrosion. They have a tubular receiver for the door roller, which is missing from many versions. It’s important to have so that the stem can be greased with a lithium grease with molybdenum sulfide so that the door roller can follow the variations of the track spacing. Without it, track variations twist the wheel on its ball bearings and the wheel becomes floppy and thr bearings wear out very quickly. They also have a large side post for the cable end loop. It’s only a little more work to put the cable over than a small post and the larger bend radius increases the cable life substantially by reducing the bending stress that cracks individual strands leading to them breaking one by one and then all at once. The larger post is also slower to wear through or corrode through. A little grease on this spot also helps, but an out of sight cable loop isn’t going to get greased after the brackets have been replaced. I like that the frame wasn’t weakened by perforating it with every hole location used in the last 50 years. I have wooden doors and prefer not to re-use the holes that have been taking a beating for decades. I dowel the old holes (drill to create a clean edge and glue in a piece of wooden dowel.) and use a different screw location. Those who prefer or need to re-use hole locations are likely to need to drill holes to match the existing locations. I suggest making a rubbing of the mounting area and taping it upside down to the *back* of the bracket to mark the hole locations to drill, but other methods like putting pieces of crayon in each hole and a pressing the mounting bracket plate in place to transfer crayon to it also work. (You just leave the crayon wax in the holes and put the screws in, what doesn’t fit will be liquified by the pressure and squeezed out and instantly re-solidified, an easy clean-up.) What’s not so good is the quality of the workmanship. The first two photos photo shows how the roller bracket supports weren’t consistently bent to a right angle. The third photo shows when the tubular roller support was swaged to expand its ends and lock it in place, one of the tools hung up and didn’t go into the tube. The tube end has an off center flaring and the stem tube compressed and bulged. The tube wasn’t large enough to put a roller stem through. I needed the bracket and it was adequately locked into place so I simply inserted a greased drift pin (a steel rod that tapers to a point) and gave it a few light hammer blows to expand the tube at that spot just enough to return it to the correct size and I used the reworked bracket. I suspect most consumers don’t happen to have a 7/16th’s inch drift pin hanging around in the tool drawers or know to grease it so it doesn’t get stuck and strip off the zinc plating and the bracket would have been returned and their review would have been a terse “defective, don’t buy” judgement. I think there’s enough right about this bracket to make it worth returning for a replacement instead. I have to admit I needed the door fixed and I wouldn’t have chanced a repeat. I would have ordered this design from another vendor instead.