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SIPYTOPF 2000W PWM AC Motor Speed Control Module Dimmer Speed Regulator AC 50-220V 2000W(max) 25A SCR Constant Adjustable Voltage Regulator
The output voltage is adjusted anywhere between 50V-220V for use with electrical appliances. It can use to such as electric stove, water heater tune thermal, lighting dimmer, small motor speed, electric iron thermostat, and achieve dimming, thermostats, pressure regulator effect.
Input supply voltage: 110V ~ 250V AC
The output voltage:50V-250V
The maximum output power: 2000W
The maximum output current :25A
The voltage regulating range:50V-250V AC
Operation environment temperature: -20℃ - 40℃.
1.Make Sure All Power is Disconnected Before You Attempting to Wire the Controller.
2.Cut Battle Line or Zero Line of the Lamp or Electrical Appliances, and Connect Wires Refer to the “Wiring Diagram”.
3.Turn On the Power, and Adjust the Potentiometer. If the Adjustment Range is Narrow, Please Adjust the Blue Potentiometer to Set the Maximum Adjustment Range to 50V to Input Voltage.
Application:
Dimming Lamps
Water Heater Heating
Electric Stove
Small Motor Speed Regulation
Soldering Iron Temperature Adjustment
Specifications:
This controller uses novel bi-directional high-power SCR. It can be very convenient adjust the current up to 25A, and solve the over current problem of the heating wire resistance is too small in the case of cooling causing good.
Kindle Customer
Reviewed in the United States on February 2, 2025
I found a serious oversight by the manufacturer. The main power switching component, the SCR (silicon controlled rectifier) was NOT properly screwed to the aluminum heat sink. It is important that the heatsink be in tight contact with the SCR, to dissipate heat, else the SCR can fail due to heat overload. Also, there was no thermal compound (heat sink grease) between the SCR and the aluminum heatsink. It is standard manufacturing practice to put thermal compound or a silicone rubber thermal pad between SCR and their heatsink. I was able to add heatsink grease and tighten up the loose screw and it now works well, and my dimmer is not likely to die from heat failure. If you do not have thermal compound, at the minimum be sure to tighten the screw!
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on September 23, 2024
The replacement control that I received today seems to be working fine.
Jim Wings
Reviewed in the United States on July 29, 2024
Used to control an old chemical stirring equipment. The original speed control was just a wire wound rheostat. That no longer worked. This speed control worked great. It even has an adjustable setting rheostat to set the minimum speed on the motor.
Julio
Reviewed in the United States on June 28, 2024
Es un buen producto, pero no controla el voltaje en la primera media vuelta de la perilla, debería funcionar de 0 a 100% de forma lineal en todo el rango del barrido de la perilla
Mike Amado
Reviewed in the United States on November 13, 2024
Fast shipping/ good item / buy with confidence AAA+++
Graphic Fusion
Reviewed in the United States on July 6, 2023
I used this to control the speed of a ventilation fan. I love that the little trim potentiometer allows a person to adjust the range of the main potentiometer to match the load (which in my case is very small).I actually modified this circuit by substituting a thermistor for the main potentiometer. This way when the temperature of the enclosure rises, the fan speed also increases. A thermostatic bypass takes the fan up to full speed if needed.
J&K
Reviewed in the United States on March 16, 2023
Literally melted the solder & burned out the TRIAC at 14.2A & a regulated 120V!Heat sink is far too small in still 20°C/68°F air!May want to contact Sipytoph & find out what its actually rated for in still air.Or should I say, Derated for......
Kevin Webster
Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2022
These rheostats do exactly what they are supposed to do, though there are a few details you'll want to be aware of in your application.First off, they do get hot. The more wattage you control with them, the hotter they will get. So you need to make sure you bear that in mind and provide the necessary air space and ventilation, and perhaps even orientation. Essentially, a typical single gang box will work fine for the air space and ventilation and mount it with the heatsink above the circuit board, on the orientation.As for the wiring diagram, there is one provided in the pictures on the Amazon item page. Essentially, you connect your lead (should be a black wire with standard 120V house wiring), to the inner "In" terminal and the neutral to the outer "In" terminal, then do the the same on the load side, keeping the inner and outer details the same. (You can look at the back side of the circuit board and note the outer terminals are actually connected by a long solder path, so they are the neutral.) In other words, if you look at the four wires, after installed, from left to right, the neutral "In" will be at the far left and the neutral "Out" will be at the far right with the lead to load taking the left to right inner path ("In" and "Out") between them.There is also no mounting hardware included with these units, so that will be up to you to figure out and provide, in accordance with your particular application. In my case, I modified a standard thin metal "blank" face plate for each rheostat and box, by drilling a perfectly fit centered hole for the threaded shaft with a precisely positioned tiny hole beside it, essentially imitating the way the rheostat "pot" is mounted to the circuit board (definitely only drill your holes as big as necessary, no bigger). The tiny hole is for the little metal tab beside the shaft that keeps the pot from rotating when you tighten the nut. So, you will need to firmly hold the pot against the back side of it's mounting bracket to keep that tab engaged while you remove the outside nut, put your cover plate on, and then put the nut back on the shaft and tighten it as before, only now with the cover plate in-between. (The little tab meant to prevent the pot from rotating is just long enough to hook in the tiny hole of outer cover plate so you'll only need one wrench and pressure with your finger from behind to loosen and tighten the nut.)The knob can be easily pressed onto the shaft in any position, so that will depend on the orientation you need, or prefer. In my case, my boxes and covers are vertical, so after figuring out how far the inner shaft turns, I turned it counter-clockwise, all the way to the left and then pressed the knob on with the mark at about 7 o'clock for the "off" position, which then results in the mark being at 5 o'clock when at full power.
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