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Your cart is empty.Ametherm SL32 2R025 High-Energy Thermistor For HAYWARD / GOLDLINE / AQUA-RITE GLX-PCB-RITE (Can replace AS32 2R025) This board failure is often due to the "sacrificial" destruction of the thermistor used to protect the circuit from high voltage and high current surges that could occur after a lighting strike during thunderstorms or other power surge. Normally the thermistor protects the circuit on start-up, providing a relatively high resistance (2 Ohm) at ambient temperature to limit "InRush Current", and then essentially disappearing from the circuit (0.02 ohm) when the current is near or equal the design current of 25 Amp. The part will fail when a power surge is much greater than the power handling capability of the part. The correct replacement thermistor is: Ametherm ICL - SL32 2R025 High Energy Dissipation without Failure Inrush Current Limiting (ICL) Thermistor (1 Thermistor) (Inrush Current Limiting Thermistors) (Use to repair: Hayward Aqua Rite PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) Pool Chlorinator) Note: Either AS32 2R025 or SL32 2R025 may be used , but the AS Thermistor will protect against a higher energy surge. ICLs (Inrush Current Limiters) are a cost-effective way of limiting the inrush of current that can damage other components in a switching power supply and other devices when the equipment is turned on. PLEASE NOTE SL32 2r025 is for Older PC Boards AS32 2R025 Has Higher Surge Protection DataSheet Available at: http://www.ametherm.com/Data%20Sheets/SL32%202R025.pdf Resistance at 25 °C -- 2 Ohms Max. Steady State Current -- 25 Amperes Resistance @ Max. Steady State Current -- 0.024 Ohms "D" Max. Coated Diameter -- 30 mm "T" Max. Coated Thickness -- 6.35 mm Lead Diameter -- 0.8 mm PC Board mountable. Lead Length: 38 mm (1.5 inches)
BSmith
Reviewed in the United States on September 7, 2019
Easy to order. Good price. Was suppose to arrive on a Friday but didn't come until Monday.
Marchy
Reviewed in Canada on August 9, 2019
remplacement de la piece défectueuse
Dave Schandl
Reviewed in Canada on August 19, 2019
Just what I was looking for and it arrived quickly.
Andre
Reviewed in Canada on June 2, 2019
I like
tiff
Reviewed in the United States on May 31, 2016
So like many other reviews here.....I bought the part. Not knowing, but was pretty certain it was the problem. The front of the board did not look discolored or burnt. The piece itself did not look bad or even cracked. However we took off the old piece and put the new on one. If your not sure how to solder, I would suggest a you tube video and also buy desoldering wick remover (buy that on Amazon) as I was not able to find anyone local who carried it. Radio shack would be a great choice, but ours was not longer in business here. We went ahead and installed the new piece and soldered it back to the board, front side and back side. Put the boards back into their places, hooked all the wire back up, and turned the power on..... WE HAD POWER AND GENERATING SALT AGAIN!!!!!! The original piece when I picked it up and put into my hands, I noticed several hairline cracks. I put just a tad bit of pressure and the whole things crumbled right there. I posted pics with this review and hope it helps. Saved us $350 for the new board!!!! Spent $11.60 for this piece.
L. Freed
Reviewed in the United States on February 7, 2016
This part is a frequent point of failure for Hayward salt chlorinators. If your Swimpure appears to be working but the green "generating" light goes out after a few seconds of operation, this is likely the problem. This part runs hot during normal usage, and after a few seasons of use, it will fail. Mine lasted just short of five years.Anyone with basic tools and minimal mechanical skills can replace this. Just be careful to turn off the power before you begin, and be aware that a typical 40-watt pencil-type soldering iron does not produce enough heat to remove the old part. I used a 150 Watt soldering gun, but I'm sure a 100W would work just as well. if you have one, a solder remover tool is also very handy to have.Replacing this part myself saved me at least $450. So splurge and buy a solder vacuum tool while you're at it.
Mr. Dale A. Stagg
Reviewed in the United States on September 13, 2015
My salt system failed and brought it to Leslies to replace, but the guy told me that this part is likely the case of failure, so I ordered this and sure enough, for a few dollars, my system is back working and I ordered a spare just in case for future although my original lasted for the last 10 years. It was a quick solder and presto, back in service. Sure beats spending another $1,200 for a new system and the guy as Leslies said this is typically the issue with the salt systems and it was for mine.
Rez Exelon
Reviewed in the United States on December 7, 2015
I have a Hayward salt water chlorination system at the house I recently moved into. Only problem is that right after i moved it, it turned green. Investigation commenced since i didn't want to spend $150 for a pool company to come out. After a day or two I was running out of ideas until I saw a YouTube where the current limiter burned on the unit. After I took the thing apart, sure enough it was crumbling into pieces.So I got this part, and pulled out my soldering iron and about 30 minutes later the pool was getting that sweet sweet algae destroying chlorine again. And I didn't have to pay the $500 for a new unit. Just about 6 bucks plus some cursing at how much I hate soldering stuff.
tmatt75
Reviewed in the United States on December 10, 2015
Like many others here, I bought this to fix the board for my Hayward AquaRite chlorinator. I was on my second board already and it lasted only 3 seasons. Rather than spend $400 on another board, I tried this ~5$ fix first.I attempted to remove the old thermistor by heating the solder points with my iron and trying to pull out the wires. I could not get the existing solder to melt and ended up breaking the old thermistor apart. From there, I trimmed the wires as close to the board as possible and drilled new holes in the board to mount the new thermistor. The new holes worked great and I soldered everything up and installed the board. Everything worked and i have a spare thermistor for the inevitable failure again in a few years.
GJH
Reviewed in the United States on October 21, 2015
It worked for about a month, then my board went bad. I don't think it was because of this product, just other things on the board probably went bad. The themistor was not burnt like the one I replaced.
Alfwallscaler
Reviewed in the United States on September 24, 2014
Like the other reviewers, my Aqua Rite Goldline AQR salt chlorine generator stopped working. Both the "power" and the "generating" lights wouldn't light up. I tested the fuse and ensured power was available to the panel first. Even though it had power, the top two indicator lights (the power and generating lights) wouldn't illuminate. Also, my pool had no chlorine and turned green. I figured I'd try to replace the thermistor (like I saw on YouTube and read in the comments here). While I'm generally pretty handy, I don't know anything about replacing electronic components from a circuit board. I watched a couple videos on YouTube on soldering and desoldering and purchased a cheap soldering iron and some solder. After removing the circuit board (easy -- the wires are color-coded and the board is well-marked (take a couple pictures just in case)), I gave it a shot. It took about 15 minutes total to remove and replace the thermistor. It really wasn't too hard. I reinstalled the circuit board and turned the power back on and everything worked. The power and generator lights lit. Best of all (of course), my green pool is back to being blue and clean. I don't know how long this new thermistor will last (the original only made it about 4 years), but if it dies too, I guess I'll just keep replacing until the whole circuit board dies. I'm really glad I gave this a try. I saved quite a bit of money and now I know that I can fix this problem if it happens again.
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