Easy install, and QUIET! I don't hear it at all. It gives me peace of mind knowing that it can prevent a back flow flood. Great quality, fast delivery and well-priced. This is my second one.

I don't usually leave reviews but I had to do one for this "QUIET" check valve! What can I say other than it works! I live in a high water table area and my sump is right below my bedroom and my old check valve that I bought from home depot with the flap always had several loud bangs when the pump shut off and the water going back towards the sump hit the flap but this has fixed that and I don't have to listen to the flap banging shut anymore. I would highly recommend and it is worth the money.

This check valve is exactly what I was looking for. In the past, whenever my sump pump shut off there would be 2 loud knocks from water hammer. This check valve eliminated that and it is even quieter when the pump is running. I wish I had got it a lot sooner.

Easy to install and very quiet when in use. I like it so far.

Why: I bought this because we had no check valve in our sump pump discharge system. Every time the sump pump would turn off, any water between the pump and the exit point of the house would just fall back into the sump pit, almost filling it back up. This was causing my pump to work two or three times as much as it should.Ordering: There were some import fees for me, but they were minor. I really didn't mind as the package showed up a full week earlier than it was supposed to arrive. That was an excellent bonus!Performance: I have had zero issues. No leaks, the valve is completely silent when it closes, and it is kind of neat that it is clear so you can see the water going through it.Tools: You will need a simple saw capable of cutting PVC or ABS pipe, a pencil or marker, and pipe weld glue/cement.Installation: This is my only point of concern, as there were zero instructions that came with the valve. Let me offer some basic instructions.1) First off, there are two types of pipe: PVC (white) and ABS (black). The connections on the check valve are made from PVC. This is all important as it will dictate which type of pipe weld glue you use. The most common brand I see at hardware stores is Oatey. They have ABS to ABS, PVC to PVC, or ABS to PVC (also called "Transition" cement). They say clearly on the label which application it is for.2) Wait for your sump pump to discharge, then unplug it. The last thing you want is to cut open the stack and have your pump shoot water all over your basement!3) Figure out where you want the check valve. As close to the sump pump is best so that the least amount of water falls back down after a pump, but generally somewhere about a meter above floor height is good, so that you have enough room to work. Mark out the height of the clear portion of the check valve on the pipe, and add a centimeter on each side to account for the adapter.4) Cut the discharge stack at the marks you made, discard the scrap pipe.5) Thoroughly dry and wipe the pipe ends. Slide the locking wheel onto the pipe first and up out of the way, then apply glue to the outside of the pipe and the adapter. Quickly slide the adapter onto the pipe firmly and give it a quater turn to ensure it is firmly set.6) Repeat on both ends. Don't forget the locking wheels, as they won't go on once the adapters are glued. Let the glue dry for a few minutes.7) Check the plastic O right on each side to ensure they are not broken. Place the check valve between the adapters, and screw the locking wheels evenly onto the check valve by hand. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! You want it tightened firmly so that the O rings are pressed together creating a seal, but other reviewers have mentioned that overtightening can crack the plastic, rendering the unit unusable. I tightened mine firmly by hand, and have had no issues.8) All done! Good job! Enjoy your check valve!

OMG, this thing is a life saver. So I also used two rubber couplers and some patch pipe to install this but let me tell you, the results were immediate. When I first moved in to my house, you could hear all the phases of the sump pump, the pump turning on, the water moving through the pipe, and the crazy water hammer after the check valve closed. I finally decided enough was enough and started doing some research to see what my options were. I found out the number one culprit was the check valve and that everyone was having amzing results with this one. So I took the plunge.Install:Aside from the fact that I dry-fit stuck (highly recommend if you dry fit anything to not push it on all the way) my pieces together first and took forever to remove. Once I actually got down to the pump, the overall install took about 15-20 minutes, with the most time literally being me letting the water above the old check valve out. After that, the new one literally went on in two snaps. You will need pvc cement to make this work, you can do like me and use a pice of patch pipe cemented to the actual valve with a coupler on the end, or you can go straight to the pipes coming out the pump, but you absolutely need cement.Build:It seems pretty sturdy very intuitive if you have any mechanical know how at all. Considering I installed it literally 20 minutes ago, I can't say how long it lasts.Results:Immediate satisfaction, I disconnected the electricity, for obvious reasons, when I was installing this and let some of the excess water fall in the hole with the pump. When I finished the install, I plugged it in and the water kicked up immediately. I watched the water flow past the check valve holding it open, then watched it slowly close and that was it. There was no sound at all, if I weren't looking right at it, I wouldn't have believed that it ran. The dreaded water hammer is gone!!!!!!! I'll double check when it rains again and see if that's the case. Either way, the whole install cost about 50 bucks so I'm not complaining at all.

I replaced an existing check valve that was starting to get loud at shutoff. That one was inline with some rubber couplings, so I had expected to be able to replace it directly with this, maybe some adjusting for any length differences. However, none of the home hardware stores I found had a transition to go from the 1.5" OD of the existing pipes to the odd size of the external of these couplings on the end of this valve. It's smaller than a 2" OD so they wouldn't work, but too large for a 1.5". I couldn't find any 1.75" coupling adapters, so I ended up just getting some PVC cement since the existing pipes fit into these just fine. Then I used a rubber coupling on the straight pipe I glued the top of this to, to connect to the rest of the pipe. The clear plastic of the center piece presses against the pipe ends it's supplied with, using a rubber seal around the top edge of those pipe ends you see coming out the top and bottom. The circular tightening ring secures it all well, so there's no leaking at all. If you have enough play in the pipe coming into the top of this, you can loosen it up and remove it easily enough if needed. I was tempted to buy a second one to have on hand in case they stop making them by the time this one starts to fail, so I could just loosen the two couplers, pull the middle out, and put in the new one in a matter of a minute or so... I posted a couple pictures of my install.When I installed this, I had no water coming in, I only had what was still in the crock, but it was enough to do a test run to check the sound level.The check valve I replaced was a good one that I had picked up from a plumbing supply store, not just the generic things they sell at the big box stores. It worked great, but over the last three or four years, it started hammering more and more.This one, even right next to the unit, was dead silent. Since the pipe run exited the house right above my head at the top of the basement level, I was perfectly positioned to hear any noise it would make. With the old one, I'd hear a click as the sump pump turned off, and then a second later the THUNK of the valve closing. I heard nothing here. I don't know if that's because the spring helps it close quicker before pressure forces it or what, but it works great.I also love that it is clear - so you can see inside easily. The check valve I replaced was solid red, and when I removed it to put this in, I could see the buildup of minerals or something around the valve that helped contribute to it losing the silent feature. With this, I'll be able to visually check on the state of the valve as time passes.After install, my positioning I see could have been better - I wish I had placed it either a little lower or a little higher, since the top of the clear center piece is level with the crock cover. So now I can not place the cover until I get a dremel tool and do some modifications for the slit going around the pipe. But that's not much of a concern for me as quiet as it is.Got some very heavy rains a few days after I installed it - dead silent, couldn't hear anything at all, upstairs or down by the unit. Definitely the quietest check valve I've ever had.