This product works wonders!! No more screws/tools needed to drain my oil. Saves time and headache. Would highly recommend. Will purchase another for my other cars.

I added this to my 2024 Tahoe to make oil changes easier. It fit great and works well. I have had one on my 02 f250 for years. They don’t leak or come open on their own.

I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado Work truck. I wanted to make it easier to change the oil, plus the old plug could start leaking any time. I was able to verify the right plug by asking for help in the section where you can ask questions. Plug was a perfect fit with no adaptor needed.

Put this on my wife’s 2015 Tahoe and I have it on my truck as well. It makes oil changes so much cleaner and efficient. Just make sure the pan is clean and you don’t over tighten. Helps to have the oil warm when draining since the hole is smaller than before and it can test your patience draining if it’s cold.

What does every 31 year old Saturn deserve? Yep, a Fumoto oil drain valve is the correct answer.Had one on my 2002 SL, which was given away after 440,000 miles and over 150 separate oil changes. Best investment I ever made as it allowed mess free oil changes on a very mess prone design (Saturn SLs drain onto half shaft and passenger side frame unless vehicle is on a level lift.Installed like a normal drain plug, has positive locking action and new units now include locking clips for doofuses and people who can’t be trusted to lock it closed properly.

I've used Fumoto valves for several years and always buy them any time I get a different vehicle. They make changing the oil super fast and easy. For my 2017 Escape 2.0 liter, you will need the adapter, ADP-137, due to the shape of the oil pan.

Oil is going to drain slower but now it's so easy as I do t need to look and try to fit a wrench to remove or fiddle with getting a nut back in. Saves me from having to put the front on stands.

This is my second Fumoto oil drain valve. I bought a model F-103 back in 2010 for my second-gen Toyota Prius and loved it so much that there was no question about whether to buy another one when performing my first oil change on my new (pre-owned) second-gen Chevy Volt. The F-137 has different threading versus the F-103 but otherwise seems like exactly the same product, though nowadays they're including a custom injection-molded plastic retainer clip, whereas in 2010 the valve came with a metal spring hose clamp. Frankly I think either style of clip is mostly just there to give the user some warm fuzzies, as the valve's operating lever is never going to spontaneously depress and rotate itself unless you were to hit an obstruction so hard that you'd probably sheer the whole valve off anyway.One difference with this vehicle is that the valve by itself would not screw all the way on before contacting the sloping walls of the oil pan, so I had to install an to distance the valve away from the drain hole a little bit. No real issue with that, as the valve still ends up higher than a structural support member that spans the underside of the vehicle. If the valve were going to be whacked off by something, the car would be in much bigger trouble. Fumoto does sell their own brand of extension adapters, but the one I bought was cheaper and is stainless steel and uses a rubber O-ring rather than a fiberboard crush washer.Regarding the other reviewers whose valves broke during installation, I have to question just how they were going about tightening them. The instructions specifically warn not to use an Allen wrench in the hex-shaped depression on the end of the valve body but rather to use an open-ended wrench around the valve body itself. I used a 19mm crowfoot wrench attached at a right angle to a torque wrench so I could apply exactly the specified torque of 177 in-lbs. This is actually not as much torque as I would have applied if I had been tightening it "by feel" with an ordinary ratchet wrench, so do take care not to overtighten, and use a proper torque wrench if you can.One last point: yes, draining oil through a Fumoto valve is always going to be slower than draining oil through a bare drain hole. The threaded valve stem necessarily decreases the hole diameter, and that's going to reduce the flow rate; that's just physics. I'll gladly wait a few more minutes for my oil to drain out rather than getting dirty motor oil all over my fingers and into the mechanisms of my ratchet wrench. While the oil is draining, I can be topping off tire pressures, refilling the washer fluid, changing out the cabin air filter, and vacuuming the carpets, so it's not really as though I'm standing around, waiting for it to drain. And then when it's sufficiently drained (it'll keep dripping for a very long time, but that's miniscule volumes of oil comparatively), it's so quick and clean just to shut off the valve, rather than fumbling with trying to thread back on a drain plug bolt while oil is still oozing around it — gross! And there's never a need to buy any new crush washers or O-rings ever again. So, in summary, the longer draining time is a perfectly acceptable trade for all the convenience and cleanliness the Fumoto valve affords.

I've upgraded the oil plugs on all my cars to the Fumoto Valves and have been running them for over 5 years. The most recent purchase was for my 2002 Pontiac Trans am. The metal ball valve seals well no leaks to date on any of my Fumoto products. When opening the valve a steady, predictable stream of oil flows into your oil catch pan and not all over your driveway.There is also some savings in Oil change costs. I do not need to purchase the $4.50 oil plug gasket or crush washers every 6 months.