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Metal LGA1700 Motherboard Backplate
- Material: Metal (with insulating layer,Don't tear off !)
- Size: approx 89mm x 89mm x 7.5mm / 3.5" x 3.5" x 0.29"
- Thread: M3 (Screws not included). The 4 screws included are for the 4 holes on the inner side (For fixing the motherboard)
- Hole spacing: 78mm / 3"
- Compatible Range: Suit for LGA 1700 ONLY
- Package Includes: 1x 1700 Backplate 1x Screwdriver 4x Screws(6#-32*6mm,For 4 holes on the inner side)
A
Reviewed in the United States on March 11, 2025
Got this to replace a flimsy, wobbly backplate I had for my NZXT Kraken X63. The holes on this are perfectly spaced and fit the M3 standoffs from my cooler snugly.A metal backplate like this one is recommended by overclockers so you don't bend your motherboard with your cooler mounting.
Z
Reviewed in the United States on February 2, 2025
Marketing clearly shows this labeled as an M3. It is not. It's an M2.5. I specifically bought this because it said M3.
Cisco M.
Reviewed in the United States on February 16, 2025
With the advent of all of the heavy air cooling solutions and the stress of the AIOs, this is a needed piece for your build. Motherboards are relatively easily cracked and this will definitely extend the life and reliablitly of your build. Small investment for piece of mind.
Jaren D.
Reviewed in the United States on April 7, 2025
Works well with my Asus Ryugin III AIO. The MSI Z890 Tomahawk motherboard is an excellent mobo but man, they shipped me the most flimsilist backplate that didn't held the pump well enough. This backplate works with 1700 sockets but also 1851 so I had no problems. SIGNIFICANTLY brought my temps down. Now my AIO is LOCKED IN. No worries ever again.
Hook'nBull
Reviewed in the United States on October 14, 2024
Used it to mount an XSPC Raystorm Pro for which it worked perfect. It's stronger and provides better support than the one that came with my EK water-block in another build. Highly recommend!
M. Ringer
Reviewed in the United States on September 8, 2023
This back plate worked perfectly for mounting a waterblock to my new 1700 LGA Gigabtye motherboard.The inside 6-32 holes are for attaching the backplate to the motherboard. You will need to unscrew the socket lever mechanisms from around the socket prior to attaching the new backplate. Set aside the original socket backplate just in case you need to return the motherboard. Reattach the socket lever mechanisms through the motherboard and screw everything together into the new backplate.WARNING!: At first glance you may think the plate can fit in two different ways, but this is not true. While the mounting holes for the cooler are a square (78mm x 78mm), the inside 6-32 holes for mounting the plate to the motherboard are off set from each other and only fit correctly in one direction. If it looks like things are not lining up, rotate the plate 180 degrees and you should find the correct fit.The threads for mounting the backplate to the motherboard are tapped for 6-32 screws. These are the same screws that come with the kit, but I did not use them. I just reused the screws that came with my motherboard.The threads for attaching the cooler to the backplate are M3 x .5 (coarse). This metric size has been used by many different companies for years. There's no guarantee that this is the size your cooler is using, but it is very likely. I was able to reuse the same mounting screws from a 2014 build.
Constantine
Reviewed in the United States on June 27, 2022
I’m using this with an MSI MEG S360. After replacing my ILM with a frame corrector I decided to use this for the backplate. This works great. This is exactly what AIOs and even modern air cooling blocks should include instead of the flimsy plastic back mounts.Install was easy. I recommend laying your motherboard down and placing your cpu into the socket before removing the ILM. Once the backplate and ILM are removed, gently tilt the motherboard (not too much remember that CPU is just resting in there now) and place this backplate in position. Now use at least two AIO or Heatsink mounting screws in the M3 screw holes to hold it in place. Once those are in you can lower the motherboard and easily reinstall your ILM without worrying about dropping a screw into the pins.There are couple of things to be aware of before starting all of this. Don’t remove the green protector pad. That is there to stop any conductivity between the board and this backplate. I shouldn’t need to say it but someone is bound to do it and hopefully this is a decent reminder. Second, know that the length of the M3 mounting holes are about a millimeter shorter than the standard 1700 AIO plastic mounting bracket found with most Asetek coolers. I recommend using the standard length (1200 I believe) mounting screws as those are approximately 1 millimeter longer than the 1700 ones. The slightly longer screw makes up for the shortened mounting bracket holes. Third, when mounting your heatsink or AIO be patient and go slow. The fit on your CPU is going to be a matter of feel with this thing. Perhaps do a test run with a single pea of thermal grease to get a good judge of whether you’re getting the right amount of contact or not. If you feel it’s too lose move back to the shorter 1700 mounting screws and test again. Just be remembered … slow is careful, careful is smooth, smooth is as fast as it needs to be.
Dima
Reviewed in the United States on December 6, 2022
No long screws that are needed for the heat sink mounting. My previous one from noctua cpu cooler has long sockets sticking out but this one doesn’t and they didn’t provide the screws.However I was able to find these screws in my local Lowe’s store. It’s an m3 screw 16mm long. Did the trick!
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