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Your cart is empty.Case Club Locking Hardware Kit for Steel Ammo Cans
Bob
Reviewed in the United States on November 30, 2024
I installed this lock post in a HF.50 cal. ammo box. Hard to center the hole right and left because of the seam. Take your time and use a center-punch and smaller pilot drill. Also, very important, drill the hole lined up with the TOP of the existing hole or the lever latch will NOT close over the lock post. I had to use a step drill to make the hole bigger. Had I simply drilled the box hole higher in the exiting hole, it would have closed fine. Using the locking ammo box for a trailer to store bearings and tools. My work trailer has a single tongue so I used 2 inch brackets and it bolted right up. So for about $25 I had a lockable trailer box. Thanks!
Derek
Reviewed in Canada on July 13, 2023
Won't fit a standard padlock used for ammo boxes. The hole is too small and the padlock jams as you feed it through the hole and makes it difficult to get it through. Get a genuine one and don't waste your time with this.
HeR3tic
Reviewed in the United States on November 1, 2018
Ive a couple slim 9/32" shackle locks that fit up to a point, but the curve in the shackle wont make the turn. Ive installed one onto M2A1 (L) and another on a PA108 (R) can. I wrapped tape around the pilot drill bit to center it in the hole that the stud will pass through . Worked perfectly. I also affixed another set onto a 30mm ammo can, along with a larger diameter and closer ID fitting fender washer from ACE hardware. Not as thick as that received with the kit and not stainless; but a little paint will keep it rust free.I used a conical grinding stone to grind down each side of the shaft hole (right hand PA108 can) oh so very slightly to enable the slightly larger 9/32" shackle to make the turn. It doesnt seem like much but the 1/32" larger shackle does lend itself to greater confidence in the lock up. It a firm fit, with virtually no wiggle room; but the lock shackle inserts and removes readily.Though the price has risen a bit since last I posted, Ive purchased several more. These work great when you take the time to drill the pilot hole precisely. Remember youve a pre-exiting target hole that youve got to get the exact center of as it rests in the closed and latched position. Use electric tape on your pilot drill bit to center it. If you miss by a smidgen, use a rat tail file and rasp the diameter hole larger where necessary.
LivingUpNorth
Reviewed in the United States on April 7, 2017
Pros:- An inexpensive and secure upgrade to your existing ammo cans.- This is a good option if you want to keep your ammunition (or any other valuables) safe from curious eyes. It won't stop a determined thief, of course, but may give the casual ne'er-do-well a reason to move on.- Keeps the contents sealed from outside elements by use of a neoprene ring. Should keep out rain, splashes, and pretty much any weather (I probably wouldn't submerge it, though). I tossed in a couple of silica gel packs to keep my ammo dry: - Mounting fasteners protrude very minimally into can, maintaining maximum storage space (see pictures).Cons:- Installation can be a little tricky as it requires you to drill a hole right on the seam/weld of the can. If not done right, it can easily lead to an off-center hole. Take your time! :)- May require a file to clean up the hole on the can latch to make it easier to snap fully shut (see pictures). I used a rat tail (round file) to very slightly enlarge the hole on the can latch, and it made all the difference!RE: Weight of a full can of ammo. Storing your ammo in a mil-spec, .50 cal ammo can means that even when it's full of ammo, it's still easy enough to be transported by most people. For me, this is important as not everyone in my household can carry super heavy stuff. I have several larger, plastic "ammo cans" (MTM AC11: ) which are high quality, very sturdy, and also lockable, but when filled to capacity, they're fairly heavy. They're cheaper than a good condition mil-spec ammo can and locking kit, so that's something to consider.
T.Meekis
Reviewed in Canada on December 31, 2016
Works exactly as desribed. Shipment was fast. Easy to install.
Sharon A.
Reviewed in the United States on December 11, 2016
Simple and easy install if you take your time and have some basic tools and decent twist drill bits. Empty the can first, place it on its hinge side on a flat surface (I did all my work on the concrete basement floor with the ammo can on cardboard), close the latch, look through the existing hole already in the latch and use a Sharpie to mark a dot at the center of the hole to be drilled. Check that your mark is perfectly centered as you look through the round opening of the latch. Begin drilling by using a small twist drill bit first (the instructions suggested this so I used a 1/16" in my cordless drill first). If you have a stepped drill bit you will have an easier time. Change up to a larger twist drill bit to finish the job. Install the hardware and gasket per the instructions but not torqued up too tight. I had to run a 1/2" twist drill bit through the latch hole in order to enlarge it very slightly (I moved the drill in an orbital motion as I ran it. Put a block of wood between the latch and the ammo can before doing this step). Finally, you will need to give the newly installed hardware a very slight upward angle "tweak" in order to allow the existing latch hole to properly engage with the lock hardware as it closes. With the latch fully open I put my lock through the new lock loophole of the newly installed hardware and pried upward ever so slightly. I estimate that it will need a 3-5 degree angle upward from horizontal (see photo). This has to be done because the latch engages the end of the new "lock loop" at an angle as you close it. You can also make the pre-existing latch hole bigger than its 1/2" diameter and avoid the need to "tweak" the newly installed hardware to an upward angle. I hope this helps someone with their install.
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